Hi Guys

Can someone please post some pics of how to wire up this 2.2K resistor.....

I have read about his allot but with not a single explanation (wiring diagram) on how to achieve this..

Thanks

Callies

callies wrote:Hi Guys

Can someone please post some pics of how to wire up this 2.2K resistor.....

I have read about his allot but with not a single explanation (wiring diagram) on how to achieve this..

Thanks

Callies

its the orange and blue wire on most models, to ignition live 12v +

I only asked a question!!! sorry to cause a riot!!!
But a big thanks to ALL! your help guys.
Still a bit confused! So basically the boxes on ebay do jack s**t?!!!
Stick to the resistor mod then?
I will give it a good spanking the weekend and let you know what I get out of her! speed & RPM!

Again sorry to start an arguement!!!!

Pete

If you read my summary of speculations about what they do on the previous page you'll get an idea.

If you already have one it's not going to cause harm.

I wouldn't pay that much for one though, you can get an Ignitech Programmabable CDI unit for that much that you won't have a speed restrictor on it and you can setup the igntion map to the bike.

Rick.. if there fetching that much you could sell yours and get an ignitech ecu.. I think that'd be a good idea.. into the lab for programming

I think i have decided to purchase one of the Ignitech Programmabable CDI units

cheers for your help!

No worries.

The ignitech box's are great, ask around in the general disussion for peoples feedback on them.

You can get a copy of the HRC map for it (so in effect it is the same ECU as a HRC one.. you can also get standard maps or even build your own (if you have time and a dyno to test things :D)

Ultimate tool for fettling with the bike though... :)

ref the ignitech..

I tested mine back to back with std and it was 2bhp down. So, it is not a magic bullet at all and does need to be fettled a lot to be significantly better than std.

I do find my ignitech box makes the bike respond better, rev more freely and overall feel much more lively. The dyno told the other story.

I think I had too much advance and too little compression dialled in and so I was fecking up for myself.

I've sorted that now..my bike feels lovely!!

Am running the HRC map with 2 degrees less advance, redline set to 14,500 and the tacho output corrected. Very pleased with it, great bit of kit for the money.

banoffee wrote:Am running the HRC map with 2 degrees less advance, redline set to 14,500 and the tacho output corrected. Very pleased with it, great bit of kit for the money.

Where did you get the HRC map from? and what do you mean by 'Tacho output corrected'?

Cheers
Pete

Peteo wrote:Where did you get the HRC map from? and what do you mean by 'Tacho output corrected'

Rick Oliver supplied them. I settled for the HRC-2 one after trying them all. There is an option in the software to adjust the rev counter output as it's not 100% accurate as standard (mine overread considerably). So now, 14,500 redline in the software and it does stutter at 14,500 now instead of the 15,000ish it showed before.