Well there's no word back from the garage. I wonder if:
a) They're really busy.
or
b) They can't find the fault :D

If the CDI unit arrives tomorrow I'll drop it down to them.
CHRIS: I had the same problem mate found voltage in the primary coil but nothing in the secondary. I thought the ignition control unit was buggered but it ended up being sound so did the whole system. Are you getting no spark at all????? If this is the case then like me it could be a fault with the spark plug holders mate. If not I know a guy selling a control unit for £35 and both coils with four ht leads and boots for £15. So dont let the garage put their expensive overpriced stuff on these components are sound. But also mate the starter clutch does sometimes get faults and this is what spins to create the power to send to the unit. PLEASE SPEND THE TIME TO CHECK EACH COMPONENT it could be something simple and save you alot of money. If you need anything get in touch I will be happy to put you in touch with this guy for parts. I have just got mine back working and its better than ever and if your like me you bought the nc24 because you like it better than the nc30 then try to keep her unless it is something major of course. I hope you can message me with the problem as a mate of mine works as a motorcycle mechanic.

Thanks for the advice. I've tried everything I know so will wait for the garage to diagnose then will fix it myself.
On a plus note I have found the HT lead! :D AND my mate has got me a new battery at trade price (£13.20!!!) sweet.
Still waiting to hear from garage though.

Ok just got a message from the garage.

Good news: The bike runs :D

Bad news: MOT requires front fork seals replaced & sort rusting/blowing exhaust.

I'm just about to find out what the problem was in the first place, and also whether the exhaust prob is the can or collector. Please god let it be the can!

How difficult is it to replace the fork seals?

Exaust problems going to be the collector, You may be lucky and be able to repair it on the bike. Otherwise you'll need to take the engine out of the frame to get it off and repair it.

Fork seals are easy / straightforward if you know what your doing.

Genuine Honda seals come with a new dustcap and cost around £15 each (you'll need 2 sets) or you can get aftermarket ones for £6.00 a pair (no dust-seals)

The genuine honda seals do last a lot longer, but its down to budget... £30 vs £6 as you can usually re-use the dust seals.

Neosophist wrote:Fork seals are easy / straightforward if you know what your doing.

I don't

Ok so the garage said 'We just put the new battery on, checked the wiring and it worked'.

?!?!?!?! FFS!!!

That's gonna bug me man!! That would hint that maybe they don't even like to be started off a car?

Anyway, the main thing is it now works and with minimal garage input.

It is the collector box thats blowing 'quite badly'. Are these generally repairable? What are my options? I would like to avoid the £300 stainless steel version, simply because I can't afford it right now.

Garage have offered fork seal change at £125+VAT +additional charge for removing forks.

Christoph wrote:Ok so the garage said 'We just put the new battery on, checked the wiring and it worked'.

?!?!?!?! FFS!!!

That's gonna bug me man!! That would hint that maybe they don't even like to be started off a car?

Anyway, the main thing is it now works and with minimal garage input.

It is the collector box thats blowing 'quite badly'. Are these generally repairable? What are my options? I would like to avoid the £300 stainless steel version, simply because I can't afford it right now.

Garage have offered fork seal change at £125+VAT +additional charge for removing forks.

What the fuck. £125 + Vat? It'll take you about two hours to do yourself and the forkseals cost £6.00, I'd have a go yourself, there very straightforward to do, i'll write you up a guide if you want :)

I said battery ages ago! When you said you were using a car battery I figured you had it directly connected to the car, not to the bad battery.

I use my car battery all the while when i'm starting up a dry one as you can end up cranking it quite a bit... but if your connecting it to a dead battery then you'll get problems.

Fork seals:

1. Support the front of the bike.. I use a trolly jack on a blcok of wood under the engine but whatever float your boat.

2. Undo front wheel spindle bolt and pull out wheel spindle and remove wheel (you will have to remove brake calipers also to clear discs.. and remove the forks too but dont' dangle them by the brake lines, tie them up.)

3. Drain the forks.. theres a screw on each side of them you open to let the fork oil out.

4. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the forks, it's an allen-key bolt.

5. Undo the top of the forks, this is a 22mm? nut, you'll see the springs and everythign inside.. make sure the bike is jacked up off the floor though as the spring will come flying out if it isnt! :D

6. Remove the big circlip / snapring from the top of the forks and loosen up the bolt from the top and bottom yokes.

7. you can now remove the forks by sliding them down and out, since you've undone the nut on the top you can compress them to get them out in the limited space you have.

8. Prise up the fork leg dust-cover with a blunt instrument as you want to ideally re-use this if your buying cheap seals you won't get a new one.

9. in the recess the dust-seal covered up is another snap ring that you need to prise out.

10. The forks pull apart now. There hard to get apart if your not used to it, compress them in a bit then pull really hard apart this will bring the legs apart.

Just remembered.

http://www.oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rforks.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Great step by step guide here too.. have a read of that, it has pictures of everything :D

I did have it directly hooked up to the car battery. I really have no idea why it wouldnt work for me

But hey, thank u so much for the fork seals info :D :D :D :D that must have taken u a while to type out, I owe u a beer.

I'll have a go at the weekend. Best place to buy the seals is? And do I need special tools?

ah you must have had bad connection between bike -> battery.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fork-Seals-Honda- ... 45ef2b87c5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

there you go.

Be sure to read all of that link i posted too, that contains pretty much what i typed out ( i remembered that site AFTER i'd typed lol!!)

When your putting the new fork seals in get a piece of plastic pipe from a hardware store and use it to shove the new seal in :)

Ok so I've got the bike home now seems to run fine, but the collector box is properly rotten. "It'll fly through an MOT" he said, why do I trust people on ebay?. I've bodged up the apparent holes with putty but I don't think it's gonna be enough.

The £285 stainless steel jobby from the guy on this forum, is that just for the collector box? or does it include the downpipes aswell?

The downpipes on this bike seem okay, so does that mean I won't have to 'drop the engine' to replace the collector?

I must get some pics of the bike up. Although mechanically it needs a lot of love, the fairings and plastics in general are in suprisingly good condition.