CMSMJ1 wrote:I wrapped my old HRC system up and to be fair it looked pretty rough and it deserved to be covered.

I reckon it is not a fit and forget solution to keepo your pipes clean. The wrapping will stay wet and corrode the systemk. The pipes will look rough as toast when you remove it too...

It did lower my temps but not enough to stop the system melting the bottom of my fairing away.....

When doing it - wear gloves, try to keep ventilated and don't pick your nose, scratch your eyes, arse or balls... fibreglass itch is not cool...

Make sure you haev the facility to lock wire it properly too - you don't want it coming off...

Looks trick, does a reasonable heat proofing job, but not a solution for keeping pipes clean..

I looked for some pics, but have not got any in my photobucket...I'll try and find some as I am sure there will be a couple somewhere..

well in the interest of science, this is what im going to do, and as for wet ridding i will only be riding on dry days as its my weekend bike.

exhausts off,
clean all rust and shite off,
polish to a reasonable level,
sand with wet and dry,
BBQ paint down to the link underneath, just bellow the gear selector and brake pedal area
wait till it drys,
wet the bandage to keep fibre dust down,
whilst wearing my finest yellow marrigolds,
i have ordered 12 Stainless steel ties,
also have 30meters of lock wire,
and bandage over the top of the BBQ paint so as to add an extra layer of protection, but not decided on wether to go the same down to the gear & brake pedal or just underneath the radiators? but with what you said about melting probally worth going as far back to keep the heat out of the fairing,

and i plan on doing the same to the rear but just the header the other side of the down pipes and link minfold, so the two pipes that come down behind the rear master cyclinder will be shiny as hell when i finish with them, and will not be bandaged and any high wet points like this area will be keep ontop of with just the trust old dremel and autosol.

painting stainless pipes is a crime akin to killing fluffy kittens, wiping out whole villages or shooting your beans before the wife says so...

I've used exhaust bandage on my system - Its a yamamoto which is quite raspy - I thought that by wrapping the joints with bandage it would quieten it down a bit.
I was wrong! Its just the way the system is made that makes it sound like that! I'm guessing cos its such a thin and light metal that the noise reverberates through it.

Anyway here a few pics of mine with the bandage on - just around the joints really (under my feet)




Smev

CMSMJ1 wrote:painting stainless pipes is a crime akin to killing fluffy kittens, wiping out whole villages or shooting your beans before the wife says so...

im only painting bellow the bandage after ive cleaned it up and got and dirt, tarnish and any early signs of rust off.

rickyb_dj wrote:

CMSMJ1 wrote:painting stainless pipes is a crime akin to killing fluffy kittens, wiping out whole villages or shooting your beans before the wife says so...

im only painting bellow the bandage after ive cleaned it up and got and dirt, tarnish and any early signs of rust off.

So you'll clean it nicely and then paint it in the nastiest black paint you can find (that will go brown with age)

each to their own dude...but you is mad!

CMSMJ1 wrote:then paint it in the nastiest black paint you can find (that will go brown with age)
each to their own dude...but you is mad!

If it's mild steel, then paint is good, but on stainless it's a sin - it goes against the reason that stainless exists. Maybe I just love shiny stuff too much Don't forget that unless you buy realy good quality high temp paint, it'll smoke for the first few hours that you run it and then slowly peel off Been there.

CMSMJ1 wrote:

rickyb_dj wrote:

CMSMJ1 wrote:painting stainless pipes is a crime akin to killing fluffy kittens, wiping out whole villages or shooting your beans before the wife says so...

im only painting bellow the bandage after ive cleaned it up and got and dirt, tarnish and any early signs of rust off.

So you'll clean it nicely and then paint it in the nastiest black paint you can find (that will go brown with age)

each to their own dude...but you is mad!

im polishing the bits on show

THEY ARE NOT GOING TO BE PAINTED

only the headers and manifold areas that will be bandaged on top, just an extra layer of corrosion resistance will be painted ONLY.

the pipes from the rear end can (Link pipes) to the 4 way branch and the 2 x 2 way branch to the joints under neath, the sump, and also the 2 x pipes going up behind the rear master cylinder WILL BE POLISHED AND NOT PAINTED

im trying to get this clear but keep getting the same remarks, the bits on show and unbandaged will be polished.

and im using 600degree celsius hamerite BBQ paint, stainless isnt stainless when its an exhaust it will still corrode because of it tempratures!

lol - I know...

The reason the pointkeeps getting made is that the function of stainless is that it is corrosion resistant.

Bandaging the pipes is not a one hit thing - they do not last, they need to be replaced and realistically will encourage corrosion. They look great for a month and then start to rot, unwind, get mucky and will need renewing..

Either way, painting the pipes under the bandage will still be a strange choice - as it is stainless and would be healthier left out int he breeze and washed every other month....as you will have to changce the bandages at least every 6 months then I cannot see the major achievement you hope to make (as this is all about reducing corrosion by the most effective method?)

Looking into the future I also suspect you will significantly reduce the resale value of the pipes if they are half polished, half brown with sweaty bandage marks...

Just an opinion mate so chill...