Okay, some more things going on. Time for some bodywork (erm) work. The top fairing is a gonner - so that needs to be replaced. Luckily, the lower fairing survived.

Got to start somewhere so I thought I'd start with this:



The front part of the front guard took a beating. So, for now, rather than just buy a new one, I'll cut this one down and use it. So, some tape, and the dremel and ...



And to shapes the sides:



We get:



And now the act that will be famous in the halls of NC30 tight-arseness for millenia to come. I put it on backwards ... (howls of derision come from the masses):



:-) Let the scorn begin. But, it doesn't look too bad and the rebuild money is stretching thin.

Anyways, off with that a now quick test fit of the new upper fairing. Note that they are actually NC35 race fairings:



All in not well though. Have a look at the fairing brace and where the holes should be on the fairing. Here is a closer view:



Ooops. The brace that was on the bike got mangled, so I just went and got another - an NC30 one. A quick question on this forum (confirmed by Cammo - thanks) re NC30 vs NC35 tells me I should have got an NC35 brace. That'll be swapped in the coming days, so fairing work on hold until that gets here.

Nice work on the carbs.
Turning into a 'piece of cake and a coffee' thread.

Thanks Matt. :-) I am happy to provide tea-break entertainment. I figure that if I am going to go through the effort of keeping a pic thread (and it is quite fun actually), then I may as well make it as complete, and hopefully, and interesting and informative as I can. If I learn some thing and I can add to the general pool of NC30/35 knowledge, then cool. If I screw some things up, then maybe I can help someone else avoid screwing things up. I am learning this stuff as I go, believe me!

So, having said that ... guess what arrived today then ...



The replacement for this is what:



My trashed GPI radiator. Man, these GPI replacement rads are crap. Utter crap. Measured up and welded by a intoxicated moron. Really not very good.





The finning just folds if you brush it with your finger:



Here is a link to the GPI rad/hoses install review: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=41451&start=0

These new ones are of a much higher build quality. They were actually cheaper than the GPI ones, so only time will if they stand up to racing. We'll see. But, for $120 AUD delivered in two days, worth a shot.





These new ones are actually made from pressed components, not from flattened beer cans.

They seem to be the right size too:



The advertisement said nothing about core size, but happily, they are much larger than stock, even larger than GPI:



About 34mm I think. Stock is 26mm. The GPI ones are about 30mm. So, that is quite an increase in cooling area over stock. Nice one.

No doubt, I'll regret the black paint as it all chips off, but we'll just have to see.

They are roughly the same weight as well. Being larger, a little heavier as you would imagine, but only about 50grams heavier each top and bottom, so pretty good really.

Not all good though:



vs stock:



so I dremelled them off - I do not have fans on the bike:



But the worse thing (so far) is this .. the top mounts on stock and GPI are long and lean back like this:



Whereas these new ones are short and upright - I have the HRC scoop thing above the radiator as well .... Uh oh!:



Hmmmm ... anyways so getting it fitted:





But that top mount is going to cause trouble:



So .. I'll have to "tin-snip engineer" a small bracket to bolt into the frame to mount the radiator from there. Tomorrow ... :-)

But overall, for now, quite happy with the new radiators. Especially for $120. Less broad, better built, more surface area, easier install, good radiator cap, and cheaper than the GPI items. They might fall apart in two races, who knows, but if you are interested, here is the ebay link:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280908645502 ... 1439.l2649

You've been through a fair few shocks of late. Any reason why you didn't just bite the bullet and buy a proper NC30 shock from Ohlins or WP or whoever?

Great thread, continues to entertain!

StrayAlien wrote:The brace that was on the bike got mangled, so I just went and got another - an NC30 one. A quick question on this forum (confirmed by Cammo - thanks) re NC30 vs NC35 tells me I should have got an NC35 brace. That'll be swapped in the coming days, so fairing work on hold until that gets here.

I'm not sure that they mount up to the frame the same mate, best to check before buying.

I've always used an nc30 brace with rvf race bodywork, just bent it where it needs to go and it worked fine.

Hi Malc, thanks. Yes, temping, however, "proper" NC30 shocks from Nitron or whomever will be sprung, valved and sized for the stock linkage, not the HRC one. Nitron claim to have an HRC linkage spec, but to be honest, they got that spec from an email suggestion from a friend of mine - as far as I know it was not developed in the heat of battle. And frankly, I wouldn't trust Nitron that much - I have been through three of their shocks and they all went back.

The reality is, that if I went for one of these shocks then I would have to 'guess' what spring/valving would be required for the HRC linkage and after actually getting it and using it would still likely end up having to respring and revalve it to suit. For example, a friend has a Nitron - he has had it worked over twice now to get it right, so not too much less screwing around.

Those shocks (including Nitron) have length adjustment (Nitron's is 310 -1/+6) so that may cure the swingarm fouling at the loss of some ride height.

The GSXR shock cost me $100. A new Ohlins will be $1000-$1500. A lot of biccies - escpecially when you add the HRC linkages and a revalve. I'll sell the shocks I dont use, so I'll get some dosh back there.

But, mind you, I am pretty "over" screwing around with them now! Time to get them on the track and pay a suspension tech to help me set things up. Mind you, if either GSXR or BMW shock works well unaltered, then at least I'll know what to specify when ordering an Ohlins unit or whatever!

Hey Cammo, thanks.

I am out to the wreckers today, so I'll do a visual on them both.

Correct, when matching them up the mount points are different - the NC35 is wider at the mount point - it must attach to the further down.. So, it looks like it may be bend the NC30 bracket as you suggest.

Loving the work and a compulsive read....but why turn the Mudguard after cutting it?

If it is just for cosmetics - then fair enough, but but by cutting it then turning the shortened end to the rear, are you not just going to get a lot more road spray and crud heading towards your new rads?

NGneer wrote:Loving the work and a compulsive read....but why turn the Mudguard after cutting it?

If it is just for cosmetics - then fair enough, but but by cutting it then turning the shortened end to the rear, are you not just going to get a lot more road spray and crud heading towards your new rads?

It's now HRC'd!

But seriously, the hrc manual recommends chopping the back of the guard to improve airflow to the rads, on track there's little crud that gets into the radiators (if you stay on the racing line that is!).