oollit wrote: If you are going to cut the mounts on the frame you might as well cut them off completely and relocate them to catch both bolts on the engine. It seems a bit pointless to cut up a frame to only catch one bolt.

It cant be relocate for the both bolts beacause the distance betwen bolts are diferente.

Im realy thinking what to do... welding or plates.

Go for the Alloy plates and the countersunk screws as mentioned earlier in this thread.

They don't look very hard to make and you can always revert back to a 400 if required.

if you get the welding wrong it will compromise the strength of the frame and if it's welded wrong the frame's junk. Worst thing with plates is you have to remake them.

Got a mate who has a 3TJ frame and swingarm which has been registerred as a 600. This might get around any insurance or DVLA difficulties. The frame is straight no dings and the swingarm has been powdercoated black .... pm me if your interested and I'll pass his / your details.

Might be interested in the frame and swingarm Boris. Got any idea on how much your mate wants?

I'm doing this now I've got a 4JH engine mocked up in a 3TJ frame and it looks like I'll have to remove 5mm or so from either the left side of the cylinder head or the inside of the frame mount. I don't want to mount the engine skewed in the frame and I'm not keen on modifying the rear mounts to shift the engine over.

Check the frame number isn't a 4DX - some people have had that problem with them.

Have you torqued the engine mounts up yet ??? if not try that and it should line up better.

Evilchicken0 wrote:Check the frame number isn't a 4DX - some people have had that problem with them.

Have you torqued the engine mounts up yet ??? if not try that and it should line up better.

It's a 3TJ frame and a 4JH engine, the rear mounts line the engine up square using the standard 3TJ upper mount and spacer so there's no room to manouevre.

It seems that the particular combination I have needs to have material removed from either the frame or engine to line the engine up correctly. I've measured up for mounting plates and they're the same either side. I've got the luxury of having both frames and engines to measure up.

I still need to make some prototype plates up to check my measurements but I'm pretty confident I'm right. So, once I know for sure that they work I'll be getting some laser cut from 5mm steel (5 or 6mm ally isn't strong enough). Now, if you remove material from the frame/engine, actually, bugger it, you have to remove at least the thickness of the mounting plate from the left side otherwise the engine goes in wonky. There, I said it.

If you remove 5mm from both the frame and engine on the left side then you don't need to use countersunk bolts to fit the plates to the 600 head, you can use button heads which are more readily available. The right side is more straightforward, you can use button heads to mount the plate to the head but I think you might need to take 5mm or so from the little top hat spacer things that go in the frame mounts- I'll know for definite when I make the steel plates up which will hopefully be tomorrow once I've robbed some from college!

Anyhoo, this is the plate I've come up with-



The bottom holes will be tapped for the correct thread (M10x1.25).

I'd be inclined to touque it all before grinding the frame / engine.
If you do though you only need 2.5mm off each to equal 5mm plate ... can you get away with something thinner and therefore less grinding ???

Although the 2 plates are the same pattern technically they're handed

Has anyone tried to use the standard 4JH or thundercat airbox on their hybrid?

I'm trying to fill the chasm in my midrange and though it might be good start to use the airbox that Yamha intended. Problem is likely to be a higher overall top level, leading to not being able to put the fuel tank on.

If anyone's gone down this route I would love to know how it went?