ready to go wet weight is 192kg, dry weight is as reliable as a politician with a drinking problem..

ok il try and weigh my bike and see what its like (in track suit)

yeh iv tried reducing unsprung weight, got 520 guage chain and renthal alloy sprockets and planning on getting a BMC disk when i can afford it, caliper wont make much effect as it dosnt spin it just adds load acting on the rear suspension. iv also rebuilt and referbed the rear hub recently to try and reduce as much friction in the bearings.

There's a heap of shite you can remove if you start poking your nose around:

- fork dust seals (will also get better feel/action)
- stator noise damper plate
- speedo/idiot lights
- rear brake res (just use brake hose and bung with a hole)
- chop bits off subframe not needed (luggage hooks etc)
- chop off threaded hole on frame (for brake torque arm)
- standard expansion tank, just use a juice bottle
- change engine case bolts to aluminium (don't blame me when they snap though!)


...or you can just jump on the thing and ride it!

[quote="Stickshift"]
done
- rear brake res (just use brake hose and bung with a hole)
- chop bits off subframe not needed (luggage hooks etc)
- standard expansion tank, just use a juice bottle

dont trust ally bolts, especially not with the engine
- change engine case bolts to aluminium (don't blame me when they snap though!)

im gona over th ebike trying to find steel parts i can replace with ally or remove, like fairings mounts and brackets etc

And i ride then thing every day, its my only form of transport! I just wana make it as good as it can be without compromising practicality

jap system... pretty cheap in the general scheme of things and much much lighter than O/E system...

Drill your wheels and frame................

And helmet....................

You can't really compromise between a road and race bike (track days are different). It's one or the other in my book. Although I did once know someone who rode to tracks in New Zealand and raced his road bike in the 70s! He was just mental though!

err thats what im doing..... cept i might not have to ride th ebike their and back

iv got 4 race meetings planned this year and for the forseable future this will be my only bike so dont want to go nutts on the race modding

I dont mind things that will affect my road riding a bit, i already have a steering damper that gives me fuck all lock, rearsets that are pritty high and hard to walk the bike about on cos of the fixed pegs, my rear brake lever is adjusted stupidly high so it dosnt get in the way when im riding (also makes it very hard to use, so i dont) and big front brakes, although their helpful on the road with all the nutt y car drivers

RonniB
Ofcourse removing the alt completely will provide the most benefit, but disconnecting the windings will definitely save some energy.
Some home windmill builders short circuit their alternators in high winds so that the prop blades don't spin too fast and break apart.
Try taking any electrical motor and spinning it by hand with nothing connected; then short circuit the windings and try spin it by hand again, big difference.

Any decent reg/rec will do that as well, for instance the one I got disconnects rather than ground to frame as the standard honda one. But you are right, there is a significant difference between magnetic resistance and electro-magnetic resistance, but why fit a switch when you can just pull the plug apart?!

you asked somewhere how much a carbon exhaust hanger weighed - the answer 105g i'll let you know the std's weight once I change them over.