royster81 wrote:

Neosophist wrote:

royster81 wrote:

They do work backwards but you still take the base setting from fully seated as otherwise you'd have to unscrew the pilot screw :)
Start from 1.5 and go from there :)
Do your carbs have the round bottom sliders in them too?

i'll put the at the honda base setting a go from there, and no nc35 carbs don't have rounded slides.

Ok cool! I'm sure the NC35 carbs I have have rounded slides in them *confused* now i'll have to check

my bad,you are right ,they do have round slides.

There you go Rory, now the jump in the beginning is not to bad but I know its down to the needle not being thick enough and its possible to get that almost perfect with some more fooling around its just as I do think if I go back to standard needles/washer setup with some extra at the back then it should give me an idea wat the next move is going to be either add some in the front and then some more at the back. The HRC manual says needle middle clip NO shim in front and 1 x 0.5mm at the back so I will have a go and see wat works best

I seeeee youuuu ROYSTER

G-MAN wrote:There you go Rory, now the jump in the beginning is not to bad but I know its down to the needle not being thick enough and its possible to get that almost perfect with some more fooling around its just as I do think if I go back to standard needles/washer setup with some extra at the back then it should give me an idea wat the next move is going to be either add some in the front and then some more at the back. The HRC manual says needle middle clip NO shim in front and 1 x 0.5mm at the back so I will have a go and see wat works best

Gordon....pick up a set of the RO needles from Rick Oliver. They were the final step in getting the carbs dialed on the VFR.

Hi Venom51, do you know the diameter of them, as I would think they would be in between standard and the HRC C - Needles. I have an NC35 and would really like to know if there is someone on here that is running them with some Dyno results. I know MR RO knows his stuff but wasn't aware that he is doing them for the NC35's to.

I'll pull one out and measure for you.

Thanks Venom, did you have some Dyno runs with it and maybe a Graph to compare?

Hi venom51,

I sent RO an email and he doesn't do them needles for the RVF he only do the standard/HRC sets so I just have to go with wat I have

thanks for the pictures of the graphs G-Man.

now i have the carbs on the bike and it's running i've found out i have a little running problem with them.

if the bike is cruising along in 4th,5th,6th and in and around 5-6 grand and you twist the throttle to overtake etc the bike doesn't rev cleanly until it hits about 7 grand then it takes off like it's had a good kick up the arse , but if you accellerate from below 5 grand it revs clear and just pulls with a smaller kick coming in a 7 grand.

the problem also seems to get worse the warmer the bike gets, from cold the bike has no running issues but as it warms the above starts to happen.

my question is, what is causing it ?

the carbs are RVF jobbies and fitted with ;

standard needles
115 jets all around
standard 0.5mm shim under the needles
1 5/8 turns out on the A/F screws
standard filter ( brand new )

now i haven't checked the float heights as i have never found a problem with them but could my running issues be because one or more floats are sitting low ?

am i meant to run the floats higher (or lower ) since the carbs are on a VFR now and not the RVF ?

if this fault is caused by the bike being too rich and causing it to "choke itself" when the throttle is opened could i remove the 0.5mm needles to help lean it off low down ?


any help with this is appreciated as i want the bike running well before i get to the dyno to cut down on time and if i can walk in with a good set up and tell him what i've done maybe it'll save him time checking things that aren't going to work.