What does it say for the exup models ???

Those carbs look like the 1WG style so if they're SP model then I think they were adopted for the 3en1/2

Hi evil, how was you day ?
The instruction for setting the fuel level in the bowl are the same for all the models. Just have difference heights
The carbies are from a sp, identical to the manual but the jets sizes are different.

400sp 3tj-me1
Main jet #100
Pilot Jet # 32

On mine
Main Jet #90
Pilot Jet #35

I went to the wreckers today and he recommended (and sold me) a set of main jets #115
and to move the setting on the needle up to 4 ( currently on 3)

I finished cleaning the carbies (didn't put the new jets in ) and the bike fired up fist go and is idling a lot better.
But I still have this intermediate problem with the bike some times which is a bit hard to describe.
I can go to the bike now and it will start first kick and idle well and rev. Then other times I have to hold the throttle at 1/3 just to get it idling and I cant get it to rev up. This has happened four times so far. Today I took the bike around the block a few time to see any improvement after the carbi clean and it dies on me and i had to restart it a number of time be for it was willing to revup. Each time it would start but not revup and having to hold the throttle at 1/3 to get it to idle.
I am thinking its a electrical or electronics problem.

I started making my own Carbi balance thingy today

Tomorrow will have a look at the float level and see if I can balance the dam things.

I'm thinking it's the valves, but you might be right.

Evilchicken0 wrote:I'm thinking it's the valves, but you might be right.

Well the valves sound like they need doing also the cam chain. So have would the valves cause the problem I described ?

Just read the steps to ajust the valve clearance, Crap it looks like a lot of work.
How available are the valve pads to buy ?

Compression test it. If you get a low reading add some oil and repeat it. If it's still low then it's the valves.

The only dodgy bit is getting the front sprocket nut off you need a breaker bar and some brute forcesomebody on the bikewith the brakes on helps. Engine mount nuts just need some heating and the exhaust nuts should be soaked for a while in penetrating oil - but your engine has probably been out before so it be fairly straight forward.

On the weekend I striped down the rear end/swing arm and shock for a good clean. Regreased the bearing and bushes, replaced the chain, bleed the rear brakes. All the bearings are good except the lower shock bearing (which is some type of swivel bearing) has a lot of movement in it.
Any ideas as to a bearing manufactures replacement code for it?

I have ordered a polishing kit for the aluminium and am looking in to a clear coat to preserve the finish.
Does anyone know the type of clear coat used by the manufactures and is it available to the public?
Failing that what have people used and how durable have the results been?

Thanks

Hi Guys,
Well I have given up on the search for a replacement 3en2 subframe from the butched one I have. So this coming weekend I will be getting out the welder and having a go at rebuilding the one I have. What I am after is a good picture of a subframe that I can use to calculate to correct positioning of the frame parts. If anyone has a photo or is willing to take one and upload it. It would be most appreciated. What I am after is a top down photo but the camera needs to be square on to the subframe.
(Directly above the frame) a couple of shots from the side would help too.

Thanks again,
Michael