v4 engine novice

[wullvfr]

the clicking indicates power getting to the starter relay.

a fully charged battery will read more than 12 volts.a battery with 11.7 or less will struggle to crank the engine and ultimately will not start the bike.

seperate to the fuse box there will be a main fuse by the starter relay,but this must be sound as the ignition lights come on and you are get the clicking noise.

like i said previous,charge the battery up over night and see what happens next.if you manage too start the bike take a voltage reading@5000rpm and this will give you more of a inclination to what may be faulty.


william

[Cammo]

i pressed the starter and it just went 'click' and no electrics as if a fuse had blown but all fuses are present and corect. i did notice the reg/rec was warm to the touch, if it is the regulator would a faulty one cause a complete failure of all electrics? if it does then in theory a working one would get everything working again...

Have you checked the fuse on the starter solenoid, on the right hand side just under the riders seat (covered by a red cap)?

Was the reg/rec warm even after the bike hadn't started? If so it would indicate a short. Check the negative form the battery, check it's bolted tight to the frame. Check all other major wiring for any shorts.

[pugparcels]

thank you to everyone who has given their thoughts, to make sure everyone understands the situation here we go:

1 - went to start the bike, ignition on ( oil light etc working ) choke open and pressed starter.
2 - turned over but would not fire
3 - gave her a few seconds and then tried again
4 - again oil lights etc pressed start but heard click from rear end of bike and then no electrics
5 - turned ignition off and on but still no electrics.

battery is four weeks old and is on charge over night, the start solenoid seems fine and all fuses are good. In the case of a short in the loom somewhere i replaced to day the original loom with the spare i had with the bike known to be good when removed from another bike. so my thoughts are moving back towards the rectifier.

i cant think of anything else, it cant be a fueling issue as this would not effect the electrics......right....?

[CMSMJ1]

I still say battery... It is weak, dying or dead... Must be if it can crank it and then cannot..

As William says (being the resident electrics guru) check it aftr a full charge - if not more than 12v then it is a poorly battery.

[Cammo]

Yeah battery doesn't sound right, the bike will still run even if you disconnect the regulator.

[pugparcels]

ok i will give the battery a go tonight, so it will of had 24 hours on charge i will check the voltage before turning her over. thanks again for everyones help.

will be a bit unhappy if it is the battery as mentioned only four weeks old and wernt cheap. i will let everyone know tonight what happens.

-----------------------

ok i just checked the battery before leavign for work. reading 12.2 volts after takign it off charge, still reading 12.2 / 1 volts when connected back to the bike but when i turn the ignition on we had oil lights then i checked the voltage and it was reading barely 3 volts so i am guessing either a duff battery or something is seriously draining the voltage.

i am thinking i might try the battery off my blade to see what happens then, if there is still life once the ignition is turned on then it must be the battery - but is it normal for a battery to go like this? i mean it has been sat on an optimiser when not in use? -

[CMSMJ1]

Not normal at all for a battery to just up and die like that but it deffo seems fookled..

Am sure the blade battery will have the little beast fired up in no time. Choke and no throttle..or a risk of flooding and new plugs being required. The plugs are nothing like normal ones - they are fussy little sods and might spark out of the head but once under compression they can fail..

Saying that - Am sure it will be alright!

[pugparcels]

I will check tonight and let everyone know, if thats the case then we should be all sorted but if i connected via the jump leads my car battery to it, ( engine not running ) to top it up to its required voltage surely it should start from that or if this battery is that knackered will this not work either?

Sorry electrical not my strong point, fabrication etc mods no problem electrics............well the less said the better!

Whether it is the battery or not i think i have sorted the problem for keeping the recitifer cool when the bike is finally running - i am completely changing the look of this bike as it has no fairign what so ever i have modded the subframe and used a 03 600rr tail fairing so i am going to ensure air can get through the black vents on the side of the tail fairing and mount the rectifier just there so it can be kept cool when moving hopefully this may help a bit.

[pugparcels]

ok tried the battery from my blade, and lights as before and she eve tried to fire, it does seem to be the battery. not impressed in all honesty i will be speaking to the bike shop in the morning to see what we may be able to do.

Whether they will replace it or not i am unsure - maybe a duff cell in the battery? proving the battery was defective when purchased as apposed to me intitally charging it incorrectly ( thought this was not the case ) maybe an interesting one.

thanks for everyones help - does anyone know where i could get a new set of plugs at a cheaper price?

[CMSMJ1]

Cheapest plugs I have bought are from one of our members - France and Li Asia rading.

Helpful fellow called Graeme...

£28 I think a set..bargain

get a warranty replacement on that battery I would say - a month is not good for a new one!