Anyone know how to get the trigger wheel off? Got the bolt undone, but the thing wont budge and my pullers won't fit

Also, where does the 7th wire go to on the import CDI unit? and will the bike run with it disconnected? If it does, I'll just wire the older CDI in.

Cheers.

You really need the correct thred puller or you may knacker it.
You will have to go over the differences with the cdi cuz carnt remember off the top of my head, its to do with the jap 180kmp restriction, is it the wires from the gear selector that are different as the jap gear selector sends a resistance to the cdi via the green with yellow tracer wire, has the uk one got this wire?

Been away and sat in a dark room and had a think! Im sure the 7th wire is the green/yellow from the gear selector to the cdi, to make the jap cdi work you will have to trick it into thinking it is in 2nd gear, this will derestrict it at the same time! you have to go to maplins and get a standard 1.5k ohm resistor this is connected to the 7th plug on the cdi, use a peice of wire the same thickness as the loom and spade terminal it to the cdi then use a bullit connector with the resistor in on the oter end, then using another piece of wire and bullet connector take the other end of the resistor to earth. use a washer type terminal on this end.This is the method used to derestrict any jap Suzuki and should allow you to use the jap cdi. :D

The green/yellow trace wire is the extra one on the import CDI, I'll have a look on the motor to see if there's anything obvious for it to connect to - Ahh-ahh, there is a green/yellow wire hanging off the gear change. I'll lash this unit up tomorrow and see if the thing'll run.

I can live with a 110mph (180kph) restriction on a naked bike, my neck won't take that speed.

Nice one,
You can always derestrict at a later date if it runs.

Just to update - the replacement CDI didn't work, same symptoms. I'd got it, so it was worth a try.

The signal rotor thingy is different as suggested previously, so I'll try and sort out a puller to swap the bits over.

It runs! :D
Swapped the signal wheel from the old motor to the new one.

Here's a piccy if you are interested.

The one off the original engine is on the left.

Now to the carbs....

When the motor starts it idles between 4-5k and opening the throttle actually chokes it.
Took the carbs apart, cleaned 'em up and found bits missing - O-rings, spacers on top of the slides, with bodged repairs.

Looks like I'll be on the look out for a new set of carbs

HI Reggit,
You any closer to gettin the bike going?

No joy with it yet. It won't even bl**dy start now...

What I know so far:
Compressions good - 170-190PSI across the cylinders (dry test)
Engine known good in the bike it came from and has run in mine although not reving out.
Has spark on all plugs.

I have found that both ignition coils have cracked plasic insulators, so I wondered if they are breaking down at higher rpm hence the engine not reving out. I have sourced some more known good coils (off a NC29) eek Honda parts, but only cost a few quid off fleabay.

I wonder if the carbs are as good as I thought as it theory is should start ok, but doesn't. I also think I may have flooded the engine with the futile attempts at starting it, so am letting it sit with the plugs out for a while.

Keep at it m8!
Are the coils 3ohm? Ive got a spare set if you get stuck.