the worst you may have done is broke a rocker arm if the valve was excessively tight. theoretically you may score the cam shaft lobe, but its all theory
realisitically you prob only ran it for a little time so damage is prob negligible

Even though the lobes were TDC when you removed the shims, when you moved to the next cylinder or inlet/outlet, you turn the crank around and in turn the cam-lobes will press down on the rocker arm and these will press into the recess that the shim would normally sit in. Damage should be minimal, if at all any but put the shims back in place and re-do the measuring and hopefully all will be sorted.

Ok cool, just one question, how is it any different to taking the shims out if you need to replace them anyway? Is it because you don't take them out if they don't need doing?

Right, shims back in, all valves re-measured, this is what I got, not nearly as bad as it was before, lol!!



So I got one exit valve that is pretty bad, 2 inlets pretty bad and 2 inlets just outside the range.

What would you do?

That doesn't look that bad at all. I think the main thing I learned when doing them is to measure all the shims in all the valves so that I had the opportunity to move them between cylinders to lessen the £5 a pop for new shims from my local shop.
looking at yours and from the shims we know the sizes of it seems we are scuppered for swapping any of your obvious bad ones about to get them into scope.
I am surprised that they are all right on the lower limit as it makes it tough to get some good swaps in.
Saying that - you might have some skinny shims in some of them and maybe it can be sorted without splashing the cash.

I was lucky when I did mine last time - I have a whole engine spare and a mates bike too… got them all buzzin but I have to do my new bike when I replace the cyl head possibly tonight…

Anyways - without knowing your other shim sizes it is tough to asisst apart from to say - get down the shops and buy some! Spares always come in handy

Oh ok, well I have actually measured most of them, I have them written down here. I'll update the rest of them now and post it up, thanks for all your help!!

Bonus - get them whacked up..

Although its a lengthy procedure I find the best way to do it is one shim at a time and record the shim size on paper as you go. It shouldn't do anything adverse to your engine turning it without the shims in place but its best practice not to do so. And well done on giving it a go mate you'll only learn by doing.

V. wrote:Although its a lengthy procedure I find the best way to do it is one shim at a time and record the shim size on paper as you go. It shouldn't do anything adverse to your engine turning it without the shims in place but its best practice not to do so. And well done on giving it a go mate you'll only learn by doing.

Thanks mate, there was no visible damage that's for sure, the little hammers (lol technical term) needed a little tug to get them out of the recess where I had removed the shim but nothing brutal. I'll know for future reference.

Here is a new sheet with the measurements that I have got. I can get the last ones too if we deicde it is necessary, shouldn't take too long.



BTW - Once again the users here on 400GB are unbelievably helpful and my thanks to everyone who has contributed to me in this thread (and all the others!). I will try and pass on everything I learn to future new comers here, and to all those that have helped, I owe you a beer!

oliherst wrote:BTW - Once again the users here on 400GB are unbelievably helpful and my thanks to everyone who has contributed to me in this thread (and all the others!). I will try and pass on everything I learn to future new comers here, and to all those that have helped, I owe you a beer!

We all started the same. I remember when I was afraid to remove the air-box lid on mine and now I feel that I've served my time with these bikes and know a fair bit about them thanks to this forum and friends, but I sometimes get stuck for answers on some things too. Welcome to the family.