Page 2 of 3
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:58 am
by CMSMJ1
I am thinking of going the whole hog...hmmmm
Does anyone have a real world figure for any bhp released or is it all about the responsiveness?
Removing the starter permanently is the main issue for me - bumping a bike can be a ballache and I have done it a lot. Oh man..these bikes get complicated and pricey...
do people leave a rotor on and remove the stator only? Would the motor without a rotor be prone to stalling?
Anyone care to speculate? I have one of the G Force gixxer kits for my no9 bike and I am thinking that if a rotor is beneficial then a gixxer k7 rotorr will fit on and wok fine...and be much lighter?
Anyone got any ideas? What did the HRC/F3 spec racebikes use?
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:31 am
by DAC
Mark,
My Japanese isn't great, but in the F3 book, the bottom diagram on page 1-30 shows the replacement cable grommet, so the stator has been removed, & it isn't illustrated anyway. Honda diagrams being pretty accurate, I would say that if the rotor had been retained, it would be in this diagram. As it is, the tapered end of the crankshaft is shown, with the gasket and cover (this is much clearer in the SS book). Also in the F3 book, page 1-32 top picture shows the starter motor (probably so you know what to remove) and the parts list gives details of the blank to fit in its place. Page 2-8 shows parts E & A respectively
Incidentally, I ran my bike through an entire winter with a duff regulator. 2x dark commutes of 20 mile each, starting on the button each time. I topped up the battery (9x type) each night on the Optimate and never had a problem. Only concession was that the O/S headlight dipped beam had blown and I didn't fix it, but both main beam worked.
Regards,
Dave.
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:46 pm
by Simon_Ed
never had a prob bumping it, 2nd gear a tiny bit of choke and away she goes, the only thing i would say is because mine has no thermostat or fan, when your being held in the holding area on a hot day you have to keep your eyes on the temp gauge.
But overall it does save a lot of weight and it keeps you fit lol
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:45 pm
by sa.racing
One night when i was really bored and couldn't sleep i decided to test the effectiveness of removing the flywheel (well actually putting it back on for the purpose of the test) and simply running the bike with and without there was a 1.5HP gain at the top end (not where you would expect to see it) with the mid range identical up until about 9k, Unfortunately this is not an accurate test as i didn't re-fit the rest of the charging system as i didn't have it with me, Having now put the whole charging system back on the bike i cant test it as i have sold the dyno but the last time i raced it i couldn't feel the difference and I'm very sensitive to bike changes.
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:56 pm
by Cammo
CMSMJ1 wrote:
do people leave a rotor on and remove the stator only? Would the motor without a rotor be prone to stalling?
Anyone got any ideas? What did the HRC/F3 spec racebikes use?
The rc30 hrc manuals state never to run the bike without a rotor, not sure why but I guess there's potential for damage.
The f3 nc30's ran total loss, but at a guess kept the flywheel on.
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:57 pm
by royster81
i'm almost sure i had an HRC manual and it had a wiring diagram in it where there was a reg/rec,so meaning there must have been a flywheel....
also,just becasue they charging circuit is off doesn't mean the starter has to go,i remember Gfrance telling me he always kept the starter on his bikes,incase you where to stall on the line or crash and wish to carry on i'd imagine
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:29 pm
by Spike16
yep i remeber whitham saying most of the BSB paddock had starter motors on the bikes for the same reason, imagine how hard it would be to try and bump start a hi compression 1200cc v twin on your own in a hurry
just dont use the starter too much cos you may not get to the end of the race (depending on how good your battery is)
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:43 pm
by smellstevens
Spike16 wrote:
just dont use the starter too much cos you may not get to the end of the race (depending on how good your battery is)
or how long the race is!
Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 10:48 pm
by CMSMJ1
royster81 wrote:i'm almost sure i had an HRC manual and it had a wiring diagram in it where there was a reg/rec,so meaning there must have been a flywheel....
also,just becasue they charging circuit is off doesn't mean the starter has to go,i remember Gfrance telling me he always kept the starter on his bikes,incase you where to stall on the line or crash and wish to carry on i'd imagine
The RVF HRC manual that most of us have tells you to remove the starter motor and the rotor and stator assembly.
I reckon I will remove the lot and leave a starter motor for now... but not going to charge anything - I will use a spare external battery to fire it up and use my small YT3 sized battery for running. In the summer I reckon bumping it is no worries. Just from cold first thing in the morning worries me...it was a ballache when I had genny isses back in the day and I can imagine nothing worse than failing to make a grid due to non starting!
Oh how exciting... Also re read the G force site and they were running nothing on the end of the cranks on the 428 etc. The only reason the gixer kit was wanted was to get some electricity for the least rotating weight.
Regarding keeping the starter in case you fall off - i was told on my CTC that you cannot get back on track - if you bin it..game over.
Anyone want to mail me a copy of that F3 manual then

come on brothers

Re: NC30 Total Loss Ignition
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:08 pm
by Spike16
i was told on my CTC that you cannot get back on track - if you bin it..game over
yeh thats a bit of a grey area i think, when i was marshaling i was told if the bike touches the deck you cant get back on, but its always done in bsb,wsbk,gp
2 funny stories actually:
1) at thruxton it was the last round of the year and the champion ship was already decided in this race and the champ was prattin arround on the way to the grid doing a stoppie, he landed it wrong toppled over and took out the complete front row, all down like domino's, very funny none of them would get off the track cos 2nd and 3rd was still up for contention
2) this year at donington in the very wet the superstock race was hilarious, we were at craner curves and almost every lap someone would low side and then it was, get back to the bike and get gone before the marshals can catch you, was like some old sketch show a cop and a robber and funny music one marshal even got to one guys r1, picked it up hopped on and rode it over to the marshal post revving the tits off it, we all cheered him as they were begining to get a bit pissed of with the riders