11 GBP for a 16011-MR8-003 equivalent is acceptable. Does it include the filter and all?

Neosophist wrote:The Honda part is 16011-MR8-003 for the set of valve seat, valve needle and associated gubbins.

Dave silver only sells a repro part for 11 quid per carb.

And by fake and original I thought it would be obvious.

Original would be a part made by the manufacturer or an approved 3rd party that is built to original standards.

A fake would be your typical low quality chinese knock-off that might fail at any time.

While the float needle and valve seat are probably used on several different carbs I wouldnt say they are mass produced without checking the exact data.

Most bikes these days are fuel injected for a start

Neosophist wrote:I dont understand people complaning about the price of precision made parts for old bike that are in low supply / demand like there is some cheaper alternative somewhere.

Me either. One of the float valves in the link previous was £6. A Honda labelled one is £20. A hypothetical saving of £56 if you change all four. How much time and effort will it cost when a cheap Chinese copy part is found to have short longevity, or just be crap? I always buy genuine brake seals and fork seals. Yes, they cost more than copy ones, but frankly for a few quid more I'd rather be happy that they are as a multi billion pound vehicle manufacturer with a vast R+D budget and suppliers with the same decided were fit for use. There are things you can (and probably should) scrimp and save on. Stuff like this, you don't. Just look at how many times people use aftermarket head gaskets on their NC only to find out they fail very quickly. About the only exception I would make to this rule would be Blair's carb seal kits, which I understand to be very good.

Just had a search an found this thread about float needle valve and valve seat + all bitsa.

Have some fuelling issue on the RVF NC35 of my bro's. Front cylinders are fine, start at idle, exhaust pipes get hot in few minutes. However, rear cylinders are cold, pipes stay cold.

I already changed to all new bits (NGK ER9EH plugs, new castrol 10W40 Power RS oil, oil filter, standard NC35 airfilter, subairfilter, Rick O vacuum hose, viton carb seals, genuine mounting rubbers, and few more tiny bits and drained the fuel tank and put in fresh 98 Octane Super unleaded fuel).

After I removed and checked the complete carbs for the 3rd time (the carbs were ultrasonic cleaned after this RVF was not used in 1.5 yrs storage) I air cleaned (with compressor) all sections and small tiny holes, and also fitted my standard NC35 end can (which is of course more restrictive than an race carbon end can of Jama Laser) the engine started as it should). But carb #1 left rear is still not getting fuel and exhaust pipe is still cold. The plug is dry (not wet). All other 3 cylinders are working, but when idle engine is bogging on low 1.5K rpm to 3.5K rpm and back and forward.

I suspect the float valve needle of at least carb #1 is not working (sticky) so no fuel is coming out from float chamber into the cylinder. I found the two rear valve needles was a little bit with grumpy sticky green stuff (like the additives of fuel)? So maybe replacement with new one(s) is best solution.



My questions:
* Is this "16011-MR8-003P" float needle valve set of DSS (11GBP per set) reproduction any good?
* Is this reproduction better than the genuine expensive ones from Honda 16011-MR8-003...so cheaper or the expensive ones?
* Is this compatible to use in NC35 RVF carbs or do I really need 16155-MR8-900 which is superseeded by 16011-KCK-910
(mere 32 Euro ex Vat/shipping from CSMNL).
* can I only change the float valve needle or do I really need to change complete set (1 set per carb, so in case of all carbs then that's times 4 of course)?
* Is Rick O selling these for NC35 as well? I see he listed float valve needles in his parts list for 8gbp each.

On CMSNL I found also this set #16011-422-004, is this a generic fitment for Honda, so also for NC35?

39,50 Eur ex Vat/shipping per set


Input/answers are welcome, much appreciated.

Jason

Float needles on these bikes are rubber tipped i believe, as long as it isnt damaged Its probably possible to clean them up, soak them in some fresh fuel to free off the small spring if its siezed and gently work it.

As far as I know DSS only sell decent pattern parts, I don't think its worth the dent in reputation by selling shit. Having said that it will still not be an original part, which has proven to last 20 years or so.

I think the copy would probably be fine but spekaing from my own preference, if I could afford it i'd probaly get the original, if i were replacing all 4 (quite rare to have them all go!) then id probayl buy patten ones as its cheaper.

micpec wrote: My questions:
* Is this "16011-MR8-003P" float needle valve set of DSS (11GBP per set) reproduction any good?
* Is this reproduction better than the genuine expensive ones from Honda 16011-MR8-003...so cheaper or the expensive ones?
* Is this compatible to use in NC35 RVF carbs or do I really need 16155-MR8-900 which is superseeded by 16011-KCK-910
(mere 32 Euro ex Vat/shipping from CSMNL).
* can I only change the float valve needle or do I really need to change complete set (1 set per carb, so in case of all carbs then that's times 4 of course)?

From memory I think the vfr and rvf float needles are different - I'll check tonight and let you know.

The needle seat on the rvf carbs is not removable like it is on the vfr carbs.

Neosophist wrote:Float needles on these bikes are rubber tipped i believe, as long as it isnt damaged Its probably possible to clean them up, soak them in some fresh fuel to free off the small spring if its siezed and gently work it.

As far as I know DSS only sell decent pattern parts, I don't think its worth the dent in reputation by selling shit. Having said that it will still not be an original part, which has proven to last 20 years or so.

I think the copy would probably be fine but spekaing from my own preference, if I could afford it i'd probaly get the original, if i were replacing all 4 (quite rare to have them all go!) then id probayl buy patten ones as its cheaper.

Thanks. I will have another check first of the ones on the bike.

Cammo wrote:

micpec wrote: My questions:
* Is this "16011-MR8-003P" float needle valve set of DSS (11GBP per set) reproduction any good?
* Is this reproduction better than the genuine expensive ones from Honda 16011-MR8-003...so cheaper or the expensive ones?
* Is this compatible to use in NC35 RVF carbs or do I really need 16155-MR8-900 which is superseeded by 16011-KCK-910
(mere 32 Euro ex Vat/shipping from CSMNL).
* can I only change the float valve needle or do I really need to change complete set (1 set per carb, so in case of all carbs then that's times 4 of course)?

From memory I think the vfr and rvf float needles are different - I'll check tonight and let you know.

The needle seat on the rvf carbs is not removable like it is on the vfr carbs.

Thanks. Let me know if these float valves are different or not (Nc30 vs Nc35). I did not attempt to get the valve seats off the RVF carbs. It looked like it was fixed to the carbs itself. Unlike the removable ones I have seen on VFR carbs and the sets of DSS and CMSNL.

Also contacted Rick O if he has some input for me.

The vfr and rvf needle valves are a compatible size.

I've got a reply from Rick, the ones he offer are not suitable for NC35, so only for NC30 and are "pattern" ones.
So it looks like me and my bro have to go down the Honda-route for new genuine ones which are fairly costly

micpec wrote:I've got a reply from Rick, the ones he offer are not suitable for NC35, so only for NC30 and are "pattern" ones.
So it looks like me and my bro have to go down the Honda-route for new genuine ones which are fairly costly

I'm sure someone has a few used laying around.