You need a wiring diagram for a 3en2=that is what your bike started out as.
When running, more fun will be had with pod filters and a tach that runs out at 9k;they rev to 14k before the red.
Boris may turn up a link for an online manual=
FZR400A aka FZR400SAC.

Yes you need the SAC manual they come up on the bay usually as a CD
The clocks will be a pain in the ass. The speed restriction uses the original speedo and will restrict to 12.5k rpm if it doesn't get a signal from it, but that's for later.

I reckon you might have a protection circuit cutting in somewhere they go into that diode and opperate on the blue wire. The side stand cut out switch ... try it with the side stand up and with the clutch pulled in.

How much of the loom has been changed ?

Been going through my paper manuals;
The 400 SAC wiring diagram and the 400SUC are identical.

So here is the link to the wiring schematic, taken from our General section;

http://commline.com/FZR/400/MANUALb/06_ ... l_Ch89.pdf.

Print both schematic and index off and pay attention to the sidestand switch connector and ditto the clutch lockout as stated by Boris

The starter button itself is also a known weak point that often requires maintainance.

willandrip wrote:

dobbslc wrote:Mr Willandrip how can you tell from that picture?
Am I missing some pictures here or do you have some kind of Yamaha mo jo going on?

Diagnostic practice, dobbsic .!
What did you deduce from the solenoid ?

Err....... mmmmm. Chin scratch... err
Sir Sir I can't see the black board from here!

Hi dobbsic,
What I did was to go to his avatar and check back to his first post on the forum;he is a new member and only had two.His introduction post had the pics of his bike that showed model type (s/a and sidepanel cut out slot on tank cover was indication) and clocks/pod filters.
I deduced from enlarging his current topic pic that he had a brand new non stock solenoid fitted which he later confirmed. .

I tried startig the bike with the stand up, in neutral, clutch in brake, brake in but still nothing - i hate electrics!

Thanks for the help! i will have a good look over the next few days using the information provided, and hopefully get to the bottom of it!

Out of interest can anybody shed some light on exactly what model i have, the previous owner said it was a 1wg 3en1 exup but im not sure? i was looking at replacing the clocks with some originals but got a bit confused as to which ones are correct for my bike as looking at the bike i have the ones that have two fixing bolts at the bottom of the clocks but they are advertised for a different model, are the clocks interchangable but with different mounting brakckets?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZR-40 ... d=ViewItem

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321067902071? ... 1436.l2649

Thanks nick

I have already said you have a 3EN2 swinging arm and tank cover and so consider it a 3EN2 .
"You need a wiring diagram for a 3en2=that is what your bike started out as."

A frame number of 1WG-080101 onwards would confirm this.
There is NO engine number only 1WG stamped on casing.

You want the instruments in the top link you posted.
It is a good price/you get the mounting cage with it/the seller is genuine;I have had 2TK parts from him/I do not think 3TJ clocks interchange (your second link);others will advise.
There are speed/revolutions restrictions built into the system so the correct speedo must be used,many instrument binnacles look similar but will cause numerous difficulties if used.
The problem is going to be :how much harness has been chopped to fit the other clocks ?


If you look at the pic. the black block connector with 3 wires must be present on the speedo;this is the restriction circuit.(The restriction can easily be circumnavigated cheaply at a later date once bike is running.)Wires are ;
Brown
Black
Red
and one seperate in the clear connector.

Yup - it's a 3en2, the pic of the instraments shows the flat top yoke with clipons below. What colour is it ?

Don't loose heart with electrics, think of them as something that flows, like a stream. I comes from the battery or alternator and flows through switches and onto the frame. They can be frustrating when they don't work but there's no magic to them, it's not a dark art
In the picture of the subframe / solenoid whats that wire with the translucent green wire ? it doesn't look standard to me. You might find it patches onto the solenoid or a wire coming from it.

Boris; by the look of the pic;it is the operational wire to the non stock solenoid,that is why the colour code is incorrect.
It cannot be discerned from the pic what it is plugged into.I would hope he has it connected to the starter circuit via the blue/white wire .

Like you say; wiring diagnosis is not hard,just time consuming when done remotely.

More pics of the TCI and main relay would be advantageous before moving up to the instrument block connectors.