Cheers guys, I have found waxoil (type stuff) & heat pretty good in the past, waxoil doesn't dry up when heated unlike penetrating fluids & tends to flow a bit. Never worked this time though.

Swingarm out & have another go at getting the stud out although the two snapped studs seem quite solid in the head, 3 others came out with their nuts quite easily

Oh, the joys of older bike maintenance!

Anyone know where to source a swingarm adjuster nut removal tool, used to be on ebay but can't fi.d 'em now

Pip

Rick oliver sells them

Or this one on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-NC30-NC ... 4609b2948c

Drunkn Munky wrote:Rick oliver sells them

Or this one on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-NC30-NC ... 4609b2948c

Rick price list and contact details here (viewtopic.php?f=22&t=26174)

Cheers guy's, couldn't find 'em when I looked on ebay before, however, never thought of Rick O!

Pip

I brought mine from Honda, there about 30 quid but it is dual sided, you turn it over to do the clutch and the otherside is the swining arm.

Many epople on ebay were selling a socket for 20 quid (2/3) the price of the Honda one but it only did one or the other.

Anyhow... Plenty of penetrating oil.. waxoil type stuff wont really penetrate.

Plus gas is good



This is good too, loctite freeze and release.. it will contract the bolt to help break the rust.. throw in a few good heat cycles with a properly focussed torch and youll get them out no trouble.

As NGneer said, it's all about some patience and finesse. (years of practice snapping bolts off helps too.. but its a frustrating learning curve :))

if you cant get it off and your only choice is to weld... you dont HAVE to weld a nut on. you can weld a small bar, perpendicular to the stud, and then twist it off via leverage. trust me, ive been through that shit TOO many times. and its a hell of a lot easier to weld on a bar (if there is not enough threads for a nut of course) to a snapped stud.

woops just read the part where you said 8-10mm threads left. then yeah welding a stud would be easier. screw it on, weld it on remove it off use a mig welder if you can, use the same material as the snapped screw for the stud and the as the wire feed. file or sand the stud to remove any oxidation, get a good nice clean surface so the screw and stud dont oxidize under tremendous heat if you cant find a mig welder, a stick welder will do, but more trickier.

Cheers all, any info is good ammo before moving forward. :-)

Heating the surrounding area & freezing the stud sounds a good plan, coupled with a bar welded to it - however, there is a bit of me thinking that if I'm welding a bar, why not make it an m6 threaded bar, tidy the weld & call right
A bodge yes but better than diy drilling into the head

Pip

Neosophist wrote:(years of practice snapping bolts off helps too.. but its a frustrating learning curve :))

...and yet we keep doing it - LOL

Get plus-gas for next time, it is the best stuff ever, I've never snapped a stud it makes life so easy its like cheating! WD40 is a waste of time

I think it was plus gas that i used (just chucked the empty tin out so can't check!)
I have come to the conclusion that sometimes, try as we might, there will always be the odd fastener that won't play ball.
Maybe that's lack of experience, naivety, lack of patience or a combination of all three

Pip