i found the little shim size prog but i cant open it as i dont have excel (i think thats what it uses ) on my laptop , so if anyone wants a copy to try to see if it works send me yer email and ill pass it over

Me me me!

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ok these are the gap sizes am i right in thinking well there is a gap that is smaller than specbut will be ok to run as is???

I was under the impression that you should be aiming for a gap of 0.15 for the inlets and 0.23 for the exhaust.

To me that looks way too tight

If its out of spec, then change it

Yep, ALL of your clearances are too tight, meaning the valves might not have the chance to close completely on the compression cycle, hence causing low compression which means shit performance.

Your next step is to remove each corresponding shim and getting it's thickness, and then working out which thickness shim you need to get the clearences back in spec. It's pretty basic.

So for example, the two exhaust ports on the front left cylinder, your clearance is 0.18mm, you want it about 0.25, so your new shim will have to be 0.07mm thinner than your current one. So if the current shim is say, 235, then you want a 228 to go in there.

Cheers guys spent all afternoon yesterday front shims a twat to get out all done rechecked and all in spec now, luckily a mates a breaker had a selection of shims

looser is better I reckon - they get tighter with time, so don't start tight!

I'm gonna do mine this week with the engine out of the frame wats the optimal setting as I'd sooner do them all to the optimal while the engines out and I'm rebuilding the bike

just a heads up do these look correct new size shims in ( )