This diagram might help, its for the RRSP but it basicly the same layout except that the RRSP has an extra set of plates.

I guy helped me who was into the race scene and raced the fzr but passed away this year and he helped me rebuild all the engine. He put in the new clutch plates and reccommed using the 20-40 oil and it went great . then i started working on the body work and things like that and it sat round for about 6 months . after about 4 months I tried to ride it and it did the same thing when I put it into gear it stalled but somehow it eventually went and i did the same things im doing now but it didn't take this long , now it is doing the same thing but cant get it going.

I wont be able 2 bump start it cause when it is in gear the bike dosen't move. The rear wheel is only moving when up on the stand where the transmission doesn need the clutch to change into gears?
does this help

does the clutch lever have any resistance when you squeeze it ???
If there's a little freeply to begin with then it sounds like the plates are sticking.

I'd clean inside the front sproket cover, then change the oil, becuse your going to change it anyway when you open the clutch. Don't worry about doing this it's a fairly straightforward unbolt bolt up proceedure

the clutch lever feels normal there is freeplay and resistance and can still be adjusted but does nothing for engaging the clutch. Inside the front sprocket cover is clean and the mechanism inside the cover is working fine. So ya think changing the oil thickness is a good start?

yup. use an engine flush ... add the flush then warm the engine up (in neutral ) and drain the oil. I use a decorator's roller tey to catch the oil because it's low but use plenty of newspaper around the bike

hey thanks so much evilchicken ill give it a go . would i need to get a new gasket when I open up the clutch cover or can I re use?

get a new one, the chances are you'll break the old one and you'll need some gasket sealnat too

Hello Claig, if it's done it before and went ok i'd say there definately stuck, no big deal really, it's not uncommon in bikes that have been stood. The ideas of oolitt and me are just ways to free them up, you won't damage anything. You could try pushing it as fast as poss and clunking it into second (switched off and with clutch in) but i'd just find somewhere quiet turn the ignition on run with it clunk it into second with clutch held in and when it starts rev the knackers of it and slap the back brake on. If it doesn't free off and any walls start heading your way turn it off again It's certainly the cheapest option.

Hi Claig when you have the clutch cover off I would check to make sure the clutch basket inner is moving in & out properly when you pull the lever, The push rod in the centre of the clutch may need adjusting. Also change the oil as 20-40 is to viscous when cold and might give you oil starvation problems on start up. And to think most of the time these things normaly cause people trouble by slipping all the time! :)

hey special thanks to declangaelic, oollit, evilchicken0 and dobbie coz the clutch is working again and it all good il put some pic's up of it this weekend so you guys can have a look at it. cheers craig