I ordered a taper roller for the top. As you say it doesn't take a great deal of load, shouldn't be an issue mixing the two, they load up the same way. the old one is slightly pitted but as it's out i'll do it
The fork legs went off for powder coating today, £40 for the pair in the factory colour.
So i removed the rads and they're busy cooking in the ultrasonic tank at the mo, getting all the dirt off. I'll rub them down and blow them over in etch primer and then satin black. Along with the front discs carriers too. So much for 'just fit the fork kit'

philfingers wrote:I ordered a taper roller for the top. As you say it doesn't take a great deal of load, shouldn't be an issue mixing the two, they load up the same way. the old one is slightly pitted but as it's out i'll do it
The fork legs went off for powder coating today, £40 for the pair in the factory colour.
So i removed the rads and they're busy cooking in the ultrasonic tank at the mo, getting all the dirt off. I'll rub them down and blow them over in etch primer and then satin black. Along with the front discs carriers too. So much for 'just fit the fork kit'

Hahahaha to true!
I ended up sandblasting and powdercoating the Triple clamps, screen brace, dash brace. Getting the air tube's from on top of the tank re painted black.
Then getting my front wheel sandblasted and powdercoated, new head bearings and wheel bearings!

It's been over 4 weeks since I've ridden the thing

tonights work. wirebrushed the discs with a soft wire brush on the grinder. Note to self, get a grinder man enough to run without stalling, 150w £20 Nutool grinder isn't upto it. Neither is compressor which is constantly playing catch up.
Took a couple of hours to strip the discs and two rads and bottom yoke. Tomorrow evening mask and etch prime.

I would not mix taper and ball race head bearings as the torque figures are way apart.
Taper bearings may require only 2 to 4 ft/lbs torque, but Honda say 36 for original ball races.

With original bearings, torque down to 36ft/lbs [oil the adjusting nut first] then fit the lock tab then lock nut, but only finger tight so that it is around a quarter turn away from the adjusting nut.
Fit top yoke and torque down.
With the front wheel fitted and clear of the ground then check with a spring gauge fitted to the fork top nut to see if lock to lock pull is 2.2 to 3.3 lbs pull.

thanks for the info, I don't have spring balance but have a feel for these things so hopefully it should all work out. Still awaiting the bearing anyway. Tho the forks arrived back from powder coating and i reassembled them mostly this evening.

How did you guys replace the bearing races from the headstock?
Long screwdriver and a hammer?

That's how I did it but I used a long ratchet extension. It is square instead of a blade edge. It doesn't take too much to drive the race out.

yes, easy job as there are cut outs in the frame. Came out easy, hopefully new ones will go back in easy, when they arrive, been waiting a week!

yes, easy job as there are cut outs in the frame. Came out easy, hopefully new ones will go back in easy, when they arrive, been waiting a week!

Just match the outer diamter with a socket and go to town!