Dont worry, the engine doing that is normal. Mine did the same and when the plates are fitted and the rear bolts nipped up it sits just fine. I thought that my frame was twisted at first!
When you eventually fit the header pipes from the 600 you will have to bend the pipe slightly near the rear shock as it fouls the link underneith. After that the can should fit almost perfectly!

That's good to hear Tim. All I need now is an exhaust to go on and some time to put everything together!

Recieved an R6 shock in the post yesterday, parts are starting to arrive and things are moving...

Alex.

THATS GOOD TO HEAR ABOUT THE ENGINE SPACING AS WHEN I PUT MINE IN YESTERDAY I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE MOTOR FLUSH AGAINST THE LEFT HAND FRAME MOUUNT AND LOTS OF CLEARANCE ON THE RIGHT-JUST WAITING FOR TIMS PLATES AND I CAN BOLT IT ALL UP-STEVE

Finally got the metric fine bolts and some time in the garage.
The plates bolt on really easily and fit snugly between the frame and the engine on both sides.

I bolted both plates on and put the engine back in the frame to mark up where the holes in the plates need to be drilled. I uses a drill bit the same size as the hole in the frame to mark the centre of the required hole. This turned out to be a good idea, as after drilling and tapping the plates the holes were in the right places!!

The plates after drilling/tapping.



I must be missing a trick, but tapping those holes was a nightmare! It took ages to get the tap to bite and start cutting the thread.

Anyway, I bolted the plates back on to the frame and jacked it back up into place.







Also found a rather neat trick, if you take the sidestand bracket off of the frame, the engine will pivot on the lower engine mounting bolt using a trolley jack under the sump. It will go low enough that the engine can stay attached while bolting on the plates and makes the whole procedure a one man job.

During the bolting up of the top engine mounts, I found out just how those top hat washers in the frame are supposed to work. I cut off the hat bit and cut them down so they all bolted up tight with just a little bit of the bolt head showing outside the frame, just like it is on the left side.



The ends of the bolts are a bit close to the engine for my liking, so I am getting some shorter bolts.





Well, it's all in bits again so I can paint the plates and R6 shock spacer. Won't be long before she is running again....

Alex.

I'm glad the plates fit nicely! As for tapping them what tap did you use. I've only ever had problems getting a tap to bite if you don't use a 1st cut tap.
The bolt were a bit long (i found a big bag of them in the workshop), i shortened mine a bit.
Still your well on the way!

I used an M10x1.5 tap, unfortunately it was a second.

I looked through all my bits and pieces and at first could only find a plug tap, then found the second. Worked out eventually though!

Alex.

Taking shape then ... you'll soon have it running

.

mines nearly there too engine in,airbox done,radiator pipes on, and and even it ran on the 400 igniter box(very badly) as i thought i could save chopping the loom about and save a few quid on the 600 igniter box.so any body else doing this swap-you cant run the 600 on the 400 igniter box because the pickups on the flywheel are in a different place to the 400.so i thought take the flywheel cover and see if the flywheels look the same-and yes they do-easy just swap the flywheels and job done BUT when i tried to put the flywheel on the 600 the taper for the end of the crank is different to the 400s-so you do need the 600 igniter box,mine should be here tommorrow.also anyone i promised a copy of the 4jh wiring loom i cant get a decent copy out of my printer as its hard to tell the wiring codes on the copies so i am gonna get a few done at the local stationers this weekend and get them out to you then-may even try to post a pic of the hybrid later.