Thought they don't have the piece that recesses into the headstock?

Never knew that.

I use an NC30 base plate and a carb tray so there is no turblence coming into the undertank area.

HRC springs FTW, 1 x 0.5mm washers.

Saying that, mine is not running right and feels really lean. Need a new filter instead of the HRC foam!

Yes the RVF's have a simple little rubber flap instead of that massive NC30 one.

CMSMJ1 wrote:Saying that, mine is not running right and feels really lean. Need a new filter instead of the HRC foam!

Pah!! put some bigger jets in it

CMSMJ1 wrote:I use an NC30 base plate so there is no turblence coming into the undertank area.

Paul: I also use an nc30 airbox lower with my rvf carbs (only because the carbs are on an nc30). It extends further forward than the rvf airbox lower.

You shouldn't really need to use one of these with rvf carbs but it might be well worth a try in your case if you can get your hands on one. I wouldn't be surprised if it improved your bike's symptoms, it does sound like an induction type issue with your bike, not fuelling related.

Just a thought.

I've no washers and 115's and I think it's dead on

i think i found the problem guys.

Cammo, the NC airbox and base plate made no difference, infact it possibly restricted the last few rpm i suspect.

However i bought a new air filter from silvers ages ago, so opened it up, and low and behold its different to the one i have in my bike. very very similar but slightly different colour and you can tell the genuine honda bagged one is better quality in its construction.
and funnily enough, flat spot gone !

So to sum up here, a good healthy clean set of carbs, bike runs a 3/4 yamamoto system or a full lazer system and i am running the following

112 front, 115 rear, airscrews standard at 1 and 5/8ths, an extra .5mm washer under the standard RVF needles, float heights actually set to 13mm using my template from a business card i made. and i made sure all jets and airways were clean, airscrew rubber rings were present and greased lightly.

The bike starts on the button (poss a tad rich as no choke needed in day time even after a lay up) and pulls clean and strong once warm all the way from 1 - 5k so town riding is effortless, now smooth handover between 5 - 7k, and a good rush after 8k all the way to the redline even sustained in the higher gears.

I did try 112 allround and it was as good but i did feel sustained full throttle in the high gears was slightly not as strong yet 115 all round i felt highlighted the 5 - 7k dip - albeit that was with a pattern air filter.

So in time i will try some more permutations and what effect it has on the best dyno on the planet = the human bum.

What would be the measurements for an NC30 tool?

NC30 float height spec is 6.8mm.