Old Painless wrote:Putting an extra washer under the needle is much the same as lowering the needle clip on the adjustable needle.

True. But the adjustable needles are an unknown, so you have no base setting to go off.

pugparcels wrote:i can change the needles / add washers with out removing the carbs.....cant i?

Sure can, it's a bit of squeeze though.

Keen to see how you get on.

superlite wrote: True. But the adjustable needles are an unknown, so you have no base setting to go off.

You could compare the OEM and adjustable needle thickness/taper and length ? Might be a PITA.

I've got some bakudan needles and they have been a ballache to set up. Not finished and gave up temporarily...lol

this thread suddenly seems to have become of great interest to everyone! i will try as many combinations as i can and add them up here.

maybe a £20 punt of some old looking carbs were worth a go.....

how are you testing them?

as of wednesday night i had 110 jets all round, dual foam filter & race can. she was VERY fluffy around 4 -7 k if i was to open the throttle and keep it open to 'power through' the fluffy area i would even get the occasional flame with the pops & bangs!

last night i tried the 110's with the oem filter and still had the same issue, so i replaced all jets with the 120's out of these other carbs. i turned her over and she ticked over on the choke with no popping etc as mentioned earlier ( could not do anymore due to time & kids in bed )

so i am going to try the existing setup tonight and see how she runs through the 4 - 7 k range. if she sails through great, if not i will try the other options -

- same setup as above but dual foam filter

- oem needles with an extra washer underneath ( again with both oem & foam filters )

- unknown adjustable needles ( again with both types of filters )

for the adjustable needles i am thinking of trying them first with the height as close as possible to the oem ones and if that has no noticeable difference then try the different positions available.

obviosuly the best test is a dyno etc but my main aim is to improve the 4 - 7 k as best as possible. a video is not going to give the best impression of what is happening but hopefully it may let others see what im up against / what seems to work...though what works for me may not work for others...

I hear you - but are you riding it or is this in neutral and sat on the stand??

You need load on the motor to see how it pulls..razzing it through the revs is not the same really..

To my eye that`s just a regular FI kit in your carbs - looks like their needles and that kit uses #120 Dynojets all round when run with a race can (Dynojets do have the numbers stamped on top).

The normal setup for those needles is to have the circlip in the 3rd groove from the bottom...

Rick

due to insurance, tax & mot reasons i will be mainly testing them with the bike in neutral & on the abba stand with the bike in gear.

once i am fairly happy with the best result i will take her up the road during the day when all the neighbours are at work etc and the roads are quiet...

not the best way but it will give me a good idea then i can remidy if required once all road legal.

i will try the needles with the clip third from bottom - thanks rick - if they are what you believe, what would they cost to buy? needles & jets roughly?

right, have not been able to take any video footage as the wife has been using the camera and the battery is flat. i have tried this evening...

120 jets - the non oem needles set at the third position from the bottom - i also tried two washers aswell & oem filter.

she reved brilliantly through till 6 1/2 - 7 k then got a bit fluffy again so i will try removing the extra washers tomorrow and see if that is an improvement.

will try to up load video tomorrow when the camera is charged and i have altered the washers as well.