take a look on the parts diagram in the "part number help' post, click on clutch (doesn't matter that its of a 4dx!) then the bit im on about is number 15!

Taggy i think that last post is for the thread below mate, the one about clutch problems

I'm not normally that blond, I've checked the pdf manual and the microfiche again and it is for a fuel pump, it never had one when i got it and not having had an FZR before i just assumed as it wasn't there then it didn't have one (assumption being the mother of all cock-ups) so now i need a fuel pump, i'll have a look in the for sale section or if someone has one i can buy PM me
i still need to sort the electrics out, there's definitely something wrong if the battery discharges over night ?

oh well, at least you've made some progress!

do you have an electrical meter capable of measuring amps? if so I can explain how to use it to tell if you've got a drain on the battery when everything is turned off.

most of the breakers on fleabay want too much money but this one may be worth a look.

I've got no connection to this seller.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-FZR-400-FU ... _500wt_975" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

@ white2505
cheers for the link to flebay, i'll probably go for that one, if i can't find something sooner.
as for the electrics, i do have a multimeter, it measures volts-ac & dc - ohms and amps dc. (amps ac being measured in parallel and needs a clamp metre, i don't have one of those) if that's any good then i'm all ears

The following is all based on the assumption that you have a definate good battery.
if you're not sure then try charging the battery up and leaving it overnight with nothing connected to the terminals. check the following morning that the battery is still fully charged.
if not your battery is probably fried and is your first port of call.

assuming a good battery then the meter needs to be on amps dc.
make sure the ignition switch is turned off
how many leads have you got from the +ve terminal of the battery?

disconnect all the leads from the +ve terminal of the battery.
now put the positive meter lead on the positive terminal of the battery.
the negative meter lead on each of the wires that were on the positive terminal off the battery, one at a time.
you SHOULD have 0 amps drain on each of the wires.
if you have a drain on any of the wires then that's what's killing your battery.
It'll be a pretty good drain to kill the battery over night.

I've managed to get out to the shed for an hour, (it's the wife's birthday today and all the kids have come home for the day, it's bloody chaos) but the battery is fine, still fully charged, so i connected it up and it doesn't seem to be draining at all, i tried 2/3 times and i keep getting 0A on the metre from both wires from the + terminal.
so i scratched my head for a bit and thought i'd take a look at the ignition as when i got the bike it came with no keys and i had to sent the ignition of to be re-built and have new keys cut, well i think i may have found the problem, the bloody key comes out when the ignition is turned on, so i probably just took the key out and left the ignition on, hence one flat battery,
still it would have taken a lot longer to figure out if you hadn't shown me how to test the battery , you live and learn i suppose, now i'm on a mission for a fuel pump, the one i didn't know i needed

cool, a bit more progress made.
keep chipping away at it and you'll get there.

Yes they do both have fuel pumps,and they are situated in the same place on both models,
directly under the rear of the fuel tank.

Taggy i think that last post is for the thread below mate, the one about clutch problems

thats what a half 4 wake up by my son does to me! oops!!!