Indeed, I don't see how it can be done any other way!!

As for the RF600, they're the same carbs. I'm pretty sure they're the same 35mm carbs as on the GK76aSP (I have an SP too).
http://grufty.co.uk/rf600r/parts-diagrams/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Was told that the RF had 33mm carbs, more importantly tho is that they are downdraft and not horizontal as per 400.

Jaicen wrote:Indeed, I don't see how it can be done any other way!!

As for the RF600, they're the same carbs. I'm pretty sure they're the same 35mm carbs as on the GK76aSP (I have an SP too).
http://grufty.co.uk/rf600r/parts-diagrams/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Similar but the GK76a SP still has that additional valve as seen here http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww73 ... S_Cast.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yeah, from what I can tell that extra hose doesn't actually go anywhere. There are two hoses that just run to waste, so I guess it's just a breather/overflow thing.

Jaicen wrote:Yeah, from what I can tell that extra hose doesn't actually go anywhere. There are two hoses that just run to waste, so I guess it's just a breather/overflow thing.

Thats a very good point.

x3 hoses to the tank (x2 off the carbs)
x2 breather hoses off the carbs

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Then the SP with the additional hoses.

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SP has the same pilot and main jets. The same needles and height. Bigger butterfly's but what's the point of the other hoses???

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I'm wondering now that I've gone from 100 main jets to 112.5 I'm going to need to drop the needle. Lean out the pilot jet? I did have the bike dyno'd on the original SP spec carbs and it was running slightly lean with scorpion end can and K&N.

Well carbs were on and I did some testing -

112.5 main jets and 100 main jets
needle in middle and dropped by one clip position
mixture screws fully turned in and 1.5 turns out

Bike is idling at 6k rpm running rich

From what I can gather the butterfly are closing early in the cast. This also means the idle screw is fully turned in but only just touching so no actual adjustment.

Meaning throttle part way open although the butterfly looks closed. Had enough for a few weekends.

Skimmed the butterfly's which allowed them to sit a good few mm back. I can now get the bike idling down to 1k rpm rather than 6k lol.

Quickly attached the balancer before it got dark and they are waaaay out. 4 is reading highest, then 3, then 2 and 1 isn't showing anything. So got some adjusting to do next weekend.

I think it would be best to get the bike running properly before balancing the carbs.

Balancing really only affects the idle, however I guess yours might be a bit out because of the bore work and how well (otr not well!) the butterflys are seating.

DataRacer wrote:I think it would be best to get the bike running properly before balancing the carbs.

Balancing really only affects the idle, however I guess yours might be a bit out because of the bore work and how well (otr not well!) the butterflys are seating.

Carbs 2 3 and 4 look to be within an adjustble range of each other. Carb numero uno may be a concern.

I think every possible setting is out at the moment. I'm getting good at removing and fitting carbs now though

you still going on this then mate? I remember you doing stuff last time i was about