from looking at the front of the bike I the bigger spacer on the left and smaller one on the right they go onto the wheel about 3mm on each side so are captive

when I offer the wheel with spacers up to the forks one side will fit but on the other it knocks the spacer out, they physically arnt wide enough to get it in!!!! the stand is one of these http://www.oxford-shop.co.uk/usrimage/front.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I need to get this feckin wheel in cos I want the bike on track next saturday

The spacers are right then (or at least that's how mine are :p)

I do find it does knock the spacer out though, I generally try to put the longer spacer 'into' the forks slightly, before then holding the wheel and holding in the spacer on the other side and moving that into the forks, if that makes sense...

I can't see the forks moving side to side on the forks, but they can rotate around, and in fact that could help if you point the front of both fork legs outwards that would give more room to get them partially seated before rotating the forks back and putting the spindle in...

Was the wheel tight to remove can you remember? just a thought but the bike may have taken a whack before you brought it that bent the forks slightly, hence once you removed the wheel its going to be bloody hard to get it back in. Long shot i know but i think you've explored every other option

SHE'S IN!!!!!

after about 20 mins of swearing and levering with a long flat headed screwdriver I finally spread the forks enough to get the wheel in

after examining the paddock stand I think it was what was at fault, the tong bits that hold the forks was slightly angled down so the forks were being bent in. after I measureed it against my other biek and they were about 20mm closer

thanks for advice guys, good news is the stand isnt mine, Im just borrowing it atm until I get my own, think il go for a headstock one so this thing wont happen again

Hi Spike,

When I did my NC30 I had the same prob. Wheel came out really easy. Got lazy and sprayed the fork lowers in situ then when it came to put it back in, it was a real arse. Scratched the newly painted legs so re painted them again.

I put a small peice of clear fablon on the insides second time, but again 20 mins of ranting b4 it went in. I didnt use a front stand but had a trolley jack under the sump area.

Never had such a problem before! Problem is now I'm going to have to take it out again to re do the legs in the Graphite grey rather than black

Arse!!!!!!!!

Neil

stickshift,

you sayin about the headstock stand isnt exactly true i did it to my NC30 and it ended up breaking my nose cone as it took all the weight force on the nosecone and broke it.

i have got a pretty hefty pin in there too. lol. i dont bother anymore, i just use tie down straps and a ceiling.

Lukaz2205 wrote:stickshift,

you sayin about the headstock stand isnt exactly true i did it to my NC30 and it ended up breaking my nose cone as it took all the weight force on the nosecone and broke it.

i have got a pretty hefty pin in there too. lol. i dont bother anymore, i just use tie down straps and a ceiling.

Sounds like it was a dodgy stand setup if it's putting pressure on the bodywork.

They work fine on both of my nc30's.

All the head stock stands I've seen are adjustable for angle and lift, fairing clearance shouldn't be a prob me thinks. And the pin on mine is dodged up from an old socket and some steel tubing! Works a treat!

Lukaz2205 wrote:stickshift,

you sayin about the headstock stand isnt exactly true i did it to my NC30 and it ended up breaking my nose cone as it took all the weight force on the nosecone and broke it.

i have got a pretty hefty pin in there too. lol. i dont bother anymore, i just use tie down straps and a ceiling.

I use one with no trouble.
It sounds like the bracket was fitted upside down or the pin was too slack in the steering stem.
Dave.