w00dzy wrote:If you need a reg/rec you could buy mine if it fits... its for an nc23?

Does it have part no on SH633-12 / 3.3 which is the number on my one.
If it is the same let me know, and how much with post.

Cheers

wullvfr wrote:you can test the reg/rec itself which may show it to be faulty.the test is usually not required as the usual test is enough to determine if its faulty or not.the fault finding diagram you followed if i remember correctly doesn't show how to test the reg rec....it might do but i cant remember.



wull

The bike is still playing up,

It seems that the R/R stops charging at some point, if I switch the bike off and restart it again, it starts charging. (only for a few minuets)
Could it be that the R/R fails when it gets hot ?
Also I tested the AC voltage from the 3 yelow wires from the stator, when the battery was charging at 14,5 volts (so R/R was worrking at this point) I got no where near 50 volts more like 12 v, at 5000rpm
Could the R/R cause this to happen, when testing the R/R I only got half the reading, as if the thing has an open circuit.

any ideas

Well after 2 days of checking the chart, and not being convinced that any one thing was at fault, today I think I found the problem.
The ignition switch seems to be faulty, it seems that I lose the power at the R/R live wire, only sometimes thus stopping the battery from charging.
That would also explain that when I turned the bike off and started it again, things started to work.
Well at least I hope that is the problem, Bloody electrical gremlins.

Colin

glad you have found the culprit.

as for testing the output of the alternator,did you switch the multimeter to ac volts?you also test the output with the engine idling at 5000rpm,you also put one probe on one yellow wire and the other probe on another yellow wire.



wull

wullvfr wrote:glad you have found the culprit.

as for testing the output of the alternator,did you switch the multimeter to ac volts?you also test the output with the engine idling at 5000rpm,you also put one probe on one yellow wire and the other probe on another yellow wire.



wull

Yep sorted that, I had my son hold the revs up and got a reading of 65acv, this time.
I think it was me not getting a proper conection with the meter probe, a second pair of hands is always useful.

Cheers Colin

i have a brand new 6 wire ignition switch for sf's sittign around.. if yours is the 6 wire type yer welcome to it m8 for the cost of the postage. ( hi level part no: 735645) make sure its the 6 wire one u have first tho.

meno wrote:i have a brand new 6 wire ignition switch for sf's sittign around.. if yours is the 6 wire type yer welcome to it m8 for the cost of the postage. ( hi level part no: 735645) make sure its the 6 wire one u have first tho.

Thanks mate , but I think I spoke yo soon.
The bike is still playing up, rode to work this morng fine rode home and the bike was not charging, pulled up at home and the thing decide that it would start charging again.

I can only guess now that the R/R is at fault, not the switch.
when I test the R/R i get reading as the chart says I should from the red/w to yellow wires, with the black multimeter lead on red/w and black mm lead on yellow.
when I put the red mm lead on the red/w wire and black mm lead on the yellow wires I get no reading. is this correct ?
if that makes sense.
Cheers Colin

have you checked all earth connections etc,and the positive feed to and from the reg rec.




wull

wullvfr wrote:have you checked all earth connections etc,and the positive feed to and from the reg rec.




wull

Yep done that,
I can ride it fine, return after a few hours and it has stopped charging.
I have checked the wires they all seem ok.
It is really starting to wind me up now though

i would test the output of the alternator just to make sure its ok and sound then buy another reg rec,or if you know someone with a similar bike then ask if you can borrow the reg rec for a day or two just to see if it makes any difference.



wull