I spent last night with my nose in the Haynes manual attempting to think through the symptoms and what happens when I adjust the throttle, choke and idle knob. Not being very mechanically minded (Network Engineer) It took a while to sort out.

This morning it started, sounded a bit lumpy and was idling low again, around 1k, it would respond to throttle and choke but sounded a bit rich and throbby(?) I closed the choke and adjusted the idle knob for around 2k+ and it started purring happily.

I have discussed this with a mate at work who advised the throttle and choke adjust the air AND fuel volumes whereas the idle knob only adjusts the fuel volume.

The bike is running happily with the idle at 2-2.5k, my query now is, is it ok to adjust the idle speed in the mornings to get the bike running and warm (as opposed to the choke), and then turn it down once its going? or is this indicating another issue?

Hello Mr. Fen

Thanks for starting this topic.

I too have the same problem. I replaced the battery and regulator, but the starter still wouldn't crank over. I push started it twice, but nothing worked. I decided to hit the starter button and the engine fired up. I adjusted the idle and everything seemed to work fine. My RVF seems to start up with ease with the Choke in. I'll wait till tomorrow to see if the problem persist.

Cheers All for the helpful info

Crap...bike doesn't kick over...The ignitions sputters and tries to start, but after 10 minutes. no success...This weekend, I'll take apart the carbs,clean the air filter and check the plugs.

Wish me luck

plugs!

on my first bike i had a problem where it got up to tempereature then cut out. i chased that back to the coil. it might be that the main HT lead is knackered or the coil, which is why it stinks of fuel and cuts out. it will only get worse, mine got so bad that rather than stranding you in the middle of nowhere it did it outside my house while warming up. if this is the case you wont be able to bump start it because it happens as the coil warms up and stops working.

i only use the choke for startup as it makes it unrideable when you set off, mine idles as 1k and i havent got a clue what plugs are in it.

I set the idle to 2k when cold and haven't had to fiddle with it since, once warm it idles at around 2.5k and seems to be running quite happily. I have turned the 'running' idle down to 1.5k and 2k, but each time I did this it would have the same starting issue the next morning.

One other thing that has happened is I can shift into neutral a lot easier now too, where as before I would have to switch off first?

Its going into the garage next week for its MOT check and a new blue flame exhaust i'll check with the mechanic what he reckons...

i've never had a problem shifting to 1st/2nd at any revs but i think my pilot mixture is too rich, my bike takes a while to drop down to idle (the revs climb fast and drop slow). it sits at 4k rpm often. i usually wait for it to drop to 2k before changing from neutral to first because its like CLANG! at 4k rpm. takes 10 seconds sometimes, its a bit of a pain.
a lot of bikes seem to cut out when they are cold unless you keep the throttle cracked open. even my dad's 3 month old bajaj pulsar 180cc needs its throttle held open til it warms up.

I have replaced the regulator/rectifier which seems to have resolved the starting/running issue and it now idles at 1.5k but I think its burbles better around 2k.

I now have another electrical issue

I have had the Optimate 4 battery charger on it over Christmas and given it the odd start since November to make sure it still runs ok. The headlights seem to change brightness with the revs, The battery is ok according to the Optimate so I have worked my way through the "Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf" guide.
steps 1 & 2 are ok, step 3 is below:
with idle at 2k
headlights on full setting but bulbs looking dim
the Battery charge is at 12.3~12.4V

revving at 5k
headlights on full setting and REALLY Bright
the Battery charge is at 17.8~17.9V !

at 8k the Battery charge is at 18.4~18.5V !!

according to the test these results would indicate that the RR is faulty, but its brand new?

Step 4 is for a DIODE test of the RR, The multimeter I have has this setting and plays a tone if the circuit works. I admit to being confused as to how this testing works and don't know if I am doing it right. The bike runs fine in all other aspects, I am just very aware that if I go out anywhere I'm going to be boiling the battery.

anyone got any pointers or instructions on how to use the multimeter correctly, should I get another RR unit or could it be something else?

There are other components that can cause fault apart from the reg/rec.

Go through this step by step trouble shooting guide, it's a good start:

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... iagram.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

okey dokey,
I have gone through both testing documents and have the following readings.

The 'ElectroSport' flow chart gets to step B ok, then all of the readings across the yellow wires is 0.4~0.5 Ohms, this would indicate a Stator fault as the readings should be between 0.5 and 2.0 Ohms?

I found some instructions for the multimeter I borrowed and have redone steps 1-3 from the 'Electrex World' pdf, step 3 states that if the charge voltage is >15v the RR is defective, or if <13.5v go to step 4. At idle it is at 13.4v, under rev's it goes up to 18v +

I did step 4 and tested the RR points, each yellow point gave a reading around OV455 which is in the 'good range' of OV350~OV550

Step 5 says to disconnect the wire harness from the RR and test between the stator wires and the frame ground (battery -ve) I couldn't get any readings here at all, I put one multimeter end on the battery -ve and the other multimeter end into the corresponding yellow plug socket I disconnected from the RR. Is that correct or do I need to learn how to read again?

If its correct then it could be a 'shorted turn fault' in the generator stator, what exactly does that mean apart from I need a new one?