please help me...

[mattydrvf]

Thankyou mate. Will be giving it a go in the comming weeks so i will keep you updated. Thanks again.

[mattydrvf]

OH DEAR OH DEAR OH DEAR..

Well i started the strip down today and semmed to be going quite well. I now have a few answera to my questions.. For starters i found the oil funnel was clogged up with material type stuff which i thought was wierd. Then as i took the cylinder heads off it hit me what a F@*king twat i had been. I discovered the remains of a tisseue i had stupidly left in the cylinder head to block any holes to stop my shims from falling into the engine when i changed them last month. I can't believe what have i done... . Now for the serious bit. I have found that the piston rod on the front right of the engine has snapped on the clamp bit where it joins the shaft.. Got as far as taking both heads and the starter clutch off so far. Can anybody tell me if im going to have to take everything off the block to get to it and fix it or can it be done in situ. Again any help is most welcome to keep garage costs to a min......

[Neosophist]

That'll be the cause of your low oil pressure then >.<

You've broken a conrod? If its snapped at the bottom it hopefully hasn't scored any of the barrel.

I'm not sure if you can get access to unbolt the conrod from the bottom of the engine.

I'd fully strip it so you can inspect the crank and other conrods to check for wear.. no oil to them can do a lot of damage

[MexicanGringo]

Id say fully strip as well for inspection, i found a leaking head gasket on one cylinder with coolant rusting the cyl wall.. The Haynes description of disassembly is pretty good,def needed for this job. Something else to look for here, if the conrod was pushed sideways at all violently, the gudgeon pin and piston gap where the pin fits will be enlarged with lots of play, so youl prob need another piston,conrod and bearings.. If the crankshaft was jolted heavily,it's bearings might also need replacing.Also check the other condrods that they'r straight.& when you try to open the crankcase and it refuses to budge and you spend hours shaking your fist at the wall, lightly wedge a sharpened screw driver in a thick non-critical part of the crankcase join, and lightly tap it open, this is advised against but unless you damage the whole join its fine.

Im guessing the piston seized in that cylinder, so hopefully your other cylinders arent also scratched to bits! In which case a re-hone and larger piston rings will hopefully be available.. Obviously wont be cheap to fix, but if the crankshaft and other conrods are fine it'd probably be worth keeping

[Neosophist]

Id say fully strip as well for inspection, i found a leaking head gasket on one cylinder with coolant rusting the cyl wall.. The Haynes description of disassembly is pretty good,def needed for this job. Something else to look for here, if the conrod was pushed sideways at all violently, the gudgeon pin and piston gap where the pin fits will be enlarged with lots of play, so youl prob need another piston,conrod and bearings.. If the crankshaft was jolted heavily,it's bearings might also need replacing.Also check the other condrods that they'r straight.& when you try to open the crankcase and it refuses to budge and you spend hours shaking your fist at the wall, lightly wedge a sharpened screw driver in a thick non-critical part of the crankcase join, and lightly tap it open, this is advised against but unless you damage the whole join its fine.

Im guessing the piston seized in that cylinder, so hopefully your other cylinders arent also scratched to bits! In which case a re-hone and larger piston rings will hopefully be available.. Obviously wont be cheap to fix, but if the crankshaft and other conrods are fine it'd probably be worth keeping

If since it snapped at the bottom unless the rod flayed about a lot in the barrel the bore might be ok. If it's knackered i'd look into someone stripping a decent engine and get the barrel / piston / rod from that. Will probably be cheaper than re-boring and finding a larger size piston / rings.

Or just get another engine and break the one you have and sell it for parts to subsidise the new engine.

[mattydrvf]

ok thanks for that will continue the saga of the strip down next week. Before the engine blew i noticed the clutch would slip when i accelerated quickly so want to sort that out whilst i have it apart. Do i just need to buy clutch plates or is there something else i will need to do the job aswell. And just a quick note to say that the haynes manual is bloody brilliant aint it is the true bible..

[MexicanGringo]

A couple people on here have had that over the months, its usually cos of super lubricant oil being used,worn friction plates or loose or worn diaphragm springs on the end of the assembly.. Check the depth of the channels in the friction plates to see if they worn..

Really sucks about the tissue thing & subsequent damaged engine,guess thats your one really stupid mistake for life then...

[mattydrvf]

Well don't say that i'm not married with kids yet lol....

I did notice it started to slip before its latest oil change so im thinking it is the plates.

[MexicanGringo]

The haynes also suggests worn/warped plain plates or too tight a clutch cable which prevents the plates from seating completely, either way youl know from opening it up.& look for burn marks on them as well, worn friction plates usually go hand in hand with warped/burnt plain plates

[Neosophist]

ok thanks for that will continue the saga of the strip down next week. Before the engine blew i noticed the clutch would slip when i accelerated quickly so want to sort that out whilst i have it apart. Do i just need to buy clutch plates or is there something else i will need to do the job aswell. And just a quick note to say that the haynes manual is bloody brilliant aint it is the true bible..

Could be worn clutch springs too!

Take the right hand engine case off (you'll need a new gasket, the honda OE ones are £7.00 odd + Vat (I ordered one about an hour ago)

And take the clutch and springs out.. the plate thicknesses and spring lengths are noted in the haynes manual.

If you don't already have a caliper to measure them with you can get a little 6" digital one which is accurate enough for clutch plate / spring measurement for literally a few quid off ebay. (Handy tool but if your building up a good shop might wanna invest in one a bit more than £5)