Carb problem on 3EN1
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Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
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Capitano
- Settled in member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 8:41 pm
Carb problem on 3EN1
Hi all
Recently had the carbs cleaned, in order to deal with the bike cutting out on tickover which i put down to old fuel following a lay up. In addition to cleaning them, the person who cleaned them told me that they had set the needles 2 from the bottom and changed jets to 100 for the outers and 98 for the inners. Not sure what the jets were previously, but assured this was now standard.
Anyway, after some turning over she fires up, and revs normally, but does not tick over, even when warm. And when you stick her into gear, she pulls away but unless you really open up from stand still she loses power and dies. If I continuosly blip the throttle with the clutch I can keep it from stalling, and when out on the track it will rev out, albiet doesn't feel as lively as it should, but coming into the pits or coasting with the clutch in it dies and then I have to go through a lot of messing around to fire her back up .
Qs - is this a std set up for these carbs? Are there any other things that would cause this problem? Fresh fuel and tried it on both res and full tap by the way. One thought is I havent cleaned the fuel filter. Any advice appreciated.
Recently had the carbs cleaned, in order to deal with the bike cutting out on tickover which i put down to old fuel following a lay up. In addition to cleaning them, the person who cleaned them told me that they had set the needles 2 from the bottom and changed jets to 100 for the outers and 98 for the inners. Not sure what the jets were previously, but assured this was now standard.
Anyway, after some turning over she fires up, and revs normally, but does not tick over, even when warm. And when you stick her into gear, she pulls away but unless you really open up from stand still she loses power and dies. If I continuosly blip the throttle with the clutch I can keep it from stalling, and when out on the track it will rev out, albiet doesn't feel as lively as it should, but coming into the pits or coasting with the clutch in it dies and then I have to go through a lot of messing around to fire her back up .
Qs - is this a std set up for these carbs? Are there any other things that would cause this problem? Fresh fuel and tried it on both res and full tap by the way. One thought is I havent cleaned the fuel filter. Any advice appreciated.
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buzzawak
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- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 1:22 am
Re: Carb problem on 3EN1
How was the bike running before the lay up ?
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Evilchicken0
- Site Supporter
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- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:59 pm
- Bike owned: Bimota SB6 Yamaha FZR 3TJ x2
- Location: Lundin Taan
Re: Carb problem on 3EN1
If the bike is just not idling then all you need is to adjust the idle screw.
As standard this is on the left side (sitting on the bike) and back from the fuel tap just under the tank .... but sometimes it's on the other side.
I think it goes clockwise to increase the revs, use a screwdriver to get it about right 1100-1300rpm on a warm engine
As standard this is on the left side (sitting on the bike) and back from the fuel tap just under the tank .... but sometimes it's on the other side.
I think it goes clockwise to increase the revs, use a screwdriver to get it about right 1100-1300rpm on a warm engine
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Capitano
- Settled in member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 8:41 pm
Re: Carb problem on 3EN1
It was running fine, just cutting out at the end of the sessions on occasions. I'll check the idle but would it be something else if its dying and wont rev out when you pull away?
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Evilchicken0
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 5374
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:59 pm
- Bike owned: Bimota SB6 Yamaha FZR 3TJ x2
- Location: Lundin Taan
Re: Carb problem on 3EN1
You said it did rev out when you were on track.
setting the idle should help a few things like the dying and a bit of the starting. When you start it from cold turn on the ignition and let the fuel finish clicking, then flick the kill switch so the fuel pumps cycles again (it should slow and then stop).
With carbs it's best to do just one thing at a time or you'll end up in mess
setting the idle should help a few things like the dying and a bit of the starting. When you start it from cold turn on the ignition and let the fuel finish clicking, then flick the kill switch so the fuel pumps cycles again (it should slow and then stop).
With carbs it's best to do just one thing at a time or you'll end up in mess