Fork Time

[buzzawak]

Hi guys, I haven't posted for a bit.
I have recently join a Sunday riding group called "Central Coast sports bike rider" and have been having great fun trying to keep up with the 600cc bikes.
No way to catch them in the straights but when we get into some nice corner sections I do closeup on them, well get their not trying that hard anyway.
The forks on the fizzer are holding me back, so I am moving the fork update to the top of the list.

I have looked at swaping over a 600 front end but the prices I have been quoted are rude $600 just for the forks, which maybe in no better condition than the ones I have.

So I have chosen to recondition the forks I have.
$110 for hard chrome the tubes
$199 for a pair cartridge emulators
$35 for the inner bush (Pair)
$35 for outer bush (Pair)

Ok I have a few questions you guys may be able to answer.

As well as the seals and metal slide (bush) should I be replacing anything else in the forks?




P.S some picture from a small group ride I went on
http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww18 ... C_2522.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CMSMJ1]

springs, oil/dust seals and oil all come to mind before any other fork related "upgrades"

Getting a spring matched to your weight and style is the single most important thing IMO.

The matching the damping rate to the spring - Is the current fork a damping rod fork then? Can this not be set up correctly for less money?

[Evilchicken0]

I have looked at swaping over a 600 front end but the prices I have been quoted are rude $600 just for the forks, which maybe in no better condition than the ones I have.

So I have chosen to recondition the forks I have.
$110 for hard chrome the tubes
$199 for a pair cartridge emulators
$35 for the inner bush (Pair)
$35 for outer bush (Pair)
Ok I have a few questions you guys may be able to answer.

I wouldn't do the chrome unless yours are pitted.
Don't even bother thinking about "Cartridge Emulators" they're only made to take money off people who don't know they don't work.
Get them rebuit with new springs and oil.
Remember suspension should soak up the bumps while ideally the bike shouldn't move ... think Supple not hard.
You really need to do the rear as well, as the front compresses so the back extends and vice versa. You can upgrade the calipers to Blue Spots too which will help.

Be careful .... don't try to over ride the road .... save your racing for the track

[buzzawak]

When I got the bike the left fork seal was leaking. I replaced the seal but no improvment. Have attenpted to polish out of some scratchs and pitting, has improve the leak a bit (just a damp dusk ring showing) I think part of the problem is the bushes are worn and creating to much movement. The springs are progressive, (fork spring free length 474mm) don't know if they are oem. I have increased the preload sleeve from 90mm to 110mm. The main problem is that they dive badly.

So I think re-chroming is needed
Evil you the first person to tell me the valves are crap.

[Evilchicken0]

to much drive ... you can add a little more oil depending, but remember what I said about the front and rear acting together.

it might be better to collect parts on ebay rather than try to get a front end straight out, but ThunderCat, Old shape Fazer and FZR600R Foxeye forks, front wheel and spindle "may" fit into your triple clamps, or if you have the clamps from those bikes the whole lot will bolt in.

[CMSMJ1]

Forks are a funny business though

Catridge eumlators are a proven product..but you need to know why you want them.
nothing wrong with a well setup damper rod fork.

The fundamentals are that you have a spring that is the correct rate. If you dive too fast then you probably need a stiffer rate spring - this is different to a more preloaded softer rate spring.

Adding oil - in mls is only of use to tune the rising rate of the fork when you are close to bottoming out. It will not affect the rate at which you dive.

Adding thicker weight oil will affect everything about the fork - you want the fork to hit a bump, or a ripple or even a brck and be able to move fast enough to get the wheel out the way without transferring the shock to the bike.

The limitations of damper rod forks are that they struggle in big hits as they have a set sized orifice through which the oiul flows and if you ask it to flow faster than the hole will allow you get poor response. All other aspects of control, IMO, are well covered int he damper rod fork.

the bottom line - get some springs and if the stanchions are pitted then get them sorted too. you'll be wanting some fresh oil as well but I'd be wary of just throwing in heavier/more oil into the forks if you have new springs as how will you know what has made the difference?

Evil is quite right that once you have a bike with a settled fron end any issues from the rear will become more apparent. The rear controls the handling of the bike a lot more than most people realise. You may then need toi get your shock resprung and revalved.

All of this fiddling is constructive and you learn a lot.

I am not a guru on forks..but have fettled them for my MTBs and motos for years and like to think I have a good idea of what works and how.

good luck!

[buzzawak]

So are the oem springs marked in anyway (like rate or part number) ?
I have progressive springs with a free length 474mm which dont seem to
match any of the specs in the manuals.

Are there any min wear measurement on the inner and outer bushes.
I am unsure if they need replacement.