NC24 running issues
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Re: NC24 running issues
Choke linkage is stuck on, seen it a few times on 24's a good clean and oil up and it will be fine.
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Re: NC24 running issues
I've never seen a set of carbs that have been knackered from just standing, usually it's someone messing with them! So don't give up hope yet.
The vaccumn pipe is a small pipe that runs from cylinder #1 (bottom left)
They can be a pain in the arse to start anyway, any hint of throttle on a cold engine will kill it straight away. You want to be trying full choke no throttle till it fires, waiting a minute between each 10 second go.
I'm presuming you've checked you have a spark.
As its running then dying....
Firstly: Check the choke mechinism, it's a series of rods that pull out a plunger on each carb, make sure this releases properly.
Secondly: Float heights could be wrong / pilot screws out.
Thirdly: Air filter / Air Box ok?
While its apart anyway your probably worthwhile giving it a good seeing to.
Whip the rocket covers off and check / adjust the valve timing. (you'll need to strip more things out of the way but it really is worth doing / checking.
Oil / Air Filter / Plug change.
If all of that sounds too much, just overhaul the carbs.. they can be a bit of pain to get on / off the rubbers until your 'used' to it. However:
Strip and clean the carbs, theres only 3 screws on the bottom of each float bowl, the gaskets are rubber so are usually re-usable.
Blast everything with carb cleaner, blow compressed air through all of the jets (after taking them out and checking their ok) make sure all the linkages, jets should be 115's allround and 35 pilot jets unless someones been messing. The rear emulsion tubes have an extra hole in them.
Check the sliders move ok and theirs no tears in any of the diaphrams (4 screws on the top of each carb) you'll also see the choke mechinisim when you remove the diaphram, blast all this with carb cleaner too and move the rods in and out to make sure their free.
Check float pins, float heigh and pilot screws and then re-assemble.
All carb info on my website
http://www.jacksons-lair.co.uk/specs.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
hope thats of some help.
PS: with your burning connector.. make sure your running a decent battery, if thats been burning the reg-rec's been throwing off too much heat, usually caused by a failing battery unable to hold a charge, if you dont' catch it soon enough it burns out the reg/rec, then burns out the altenator so you have to replace reg/rec / altenator and battery! for the sake of a good battery in the first place.
The vaccumn pipe is a small pipe that runs from cylinder #1 (bottom left)
They can be a pain in the arse to start anyway, any hint of throttle on a cold engine will kill it straight away. You want to be trying full choke no throttle till it fires, waiting a minute between each 10 second go.
I'm presuming you've checked you have a spark.
As its running then dying....
Firstly: Check the choke mechinism, it's a series of rods that pull out a plunger on each carb, make sure this releases properly.
Secondly: Float heights could be wrong / pilot screws out.
Thirdly: Air filter / Air Box ok?
While its apart anyway your probably worthwhile giving it a good seeing to.
Whip the rocket covers off and check / adjust the valve timing. (you'll need to strip more things out of the way but it really is worth doing / checking.
Oil / Air Filter / Plug change.
If all of that sounds too much, just overhaul the carbs.. they can be a bit of pain to get on / off the rubbers until your 'used' to it. However:
Strip and clean the carbs, theres only 3 screws on the bottom of each float bowl, the gaskets are rubber so are usually re-usable.
Blast everything with carb cleaner, blow compressed air through all of the jets (after taking them out and checking their ok) make sure all the linkages, jets should be 115's allround and 35 pilot jets unless someones been messing. The rear emulsion tubes have an extra hole in them.
Check the sliders move ok and theirs no tears in any of the diaphrams (4 screws on the top of each carb) you'll also see the choke mechinisim when you remove the diaphram, blast all this with carb cleaner too and move the rods in and out to make sure their free.
Check float pins, float heigh and pilot screws and then re-assemble.
All carb info on my website
http://www.jacksons-lair.co.uk/specs.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
hope thats of some help.
PS: with your burning connector.. make sure your running a decent battery, if thats been burning the reg-rec's been throwing off too much heat, usually caused by a failing battery unable to hold a charge, if you dont' catch it soon enough it burns out the reg/rec, then burns out the altenator so you have to replace reg/rec / altenator and battery! for the sake of a good battery in the first place.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- spooky
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Re: NC24 running issues
Hey Nio. have you sold your nc24? 

\That wee smilie can drink some Guinness. No wonder he's yellow.
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Re: NC24 running issues
Thanks very much everybody for all the advice - we're going to replace the carbs anyway and then go through all your points :D
But it's definately not the choke mechanism we've checked that at least lol!
Will update on the status of the NC soon
I'm really grateful, and it's not often that so much help is available like this, so thanks... :)
Katy
But it's definately not the choke mechanism we've checked that at least lol!

Will update on the status of the NC soon
I'm really grateful, and it's not often that so much help is available like this, so thanks... :)
Katy
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- Joined: Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:24 pm
- Location: Essex, UK
Re: NC24 running issues
UPDATE:
My NC24 is now running beautifully after a fresh set of carbs!
It started second time on the button after they were replaced a couple of days ago, and is on its way for a MOT tomorrow!
Bring on the trackday!
Suppose there was just something majorly wrong with the old carbs, even after they'd been cleaned, etc and after that was fixed everything ran as it should
Thanks so much for the help/advice
Katy
My NC24 is now running beautifully after a fresh set of carbs!
It started second time on the button after they were replaced a couple of days ago, and is on its way for a MOT tomorrow!
Bring on the trackday!
Suppose there was just something majorly wrong with the old carbs, even after they'd been cleaned, etc and after that was fixed everything ran as it should

Thanks so much for the help/advice

Katy
- spooky
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- Bike owned: nc24
- Location: Newtownards Co.Down N.Ireland
Re: NC24 running issues
Thats great news Katy, Health to enjoy. Good luck with the MOT.
NC24's rock.
NC24's rock.

\That wee smilie can drink some Guinness. No wonder he's yellow.
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Re: NC24 running issues
Nah don't be silly. I've got enough bits to build 3 of them now :-)spooky wrote:Hey Nio. have you sold your nc24?
Just got back from a ride-out on the beast itself.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- spooky
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 429
- Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:37 pm
- Bike owned: nc24
- Location: Newtownards Co.Down N.Ireland
Re: NC24 running issues
Ah. just that a german guy has one very like yours.
\That wee smilie can drink some Guinness. No wonder he's yellow.