Total Loss for NC30 Race Bike

[Benk]

Hi there Guys,
First post on here.

Im from New Zealand, and am currently racing an nc30 at club level, and Im looking to get the most out of the bike, for the least amount of money.

I am currently looking into total loss, and have some questions with regards to the magenets and the flywheel. Do most get rid of the entire flywheel assembly, sweat the magnets off, machine up a replacment flywheel, or just remove the stater and leave the flywheel as it is.

Ive done plenty of searching through this forum and others, and have found nothing 'specific' on the subject. More often just comments in passing.

Thanks for your help!

PS Id be interested in some HRC bits if anyone has any lying around (particularly intake bellmouths).

[Cammo]

Hi mate, welcome!

I don't run total loss (not allowed in Aus F400 racing) but you should probably take off the flywheel as well as the stator. I would test back to back running a flywheel and not running one, it might be a benefit to the torque characteristics to use one.

I have quite a few sets of hrc needles, but to be honest you'd be better off getting the replica kit of Rick Oliver as you'll get everything you need (emulsion tubes etc).

Intake rubbers are very hard to find, I've been on the lookout for another set for a while. You can get around this by chopping the standard rubber stacks down, but you'll need to restrict the air jet which the hrc rubbers do (martin has just posted some pics of his nice modded carbs in one of his posts).

[Jon]

To get benifit of the total loss the flywheel is removed completely, upside is it costs nothing to do and motor will be slightly more responsive as long as you keep it in the meat of the rev range, downside is that you will loose a bit of "lug" but the VFRs don't perform well when ridden outside its rev range anyway.

As stickshift has stated better off with a "HRC" replica carbie it from Rick Olliver (member on this website).
The RVF carbies are a bit easier to live with as far as mods go, the VFR carbies are pretty sensitive to airbox changes.

To get the most out of the bike for least amount of money the order I would do things in is;
(1) Put it on a weight loss rogram, especialy unsprung weight.
(2) Upgrade the suspension; respring both ends for your weight, revalve the front, revalve or upgrade the rear shock depending on the rules that you run in.
(3) Brakes; overhaul the standard calipers, fit decent pads both ends and braided lines on the front.
(4) Exhaust; fit at the minimum a half system and decent can, full system is nice but the rear is where most of the gains are made.
(5) Intake; RVF carbies, Rick Olliver HRC replica kit, Ram/cold air.
(6) Ignition; Rick Olliver programmable ignition with RVF HRC map


IMHO the NC30s strengths are decent handling and brakes, the other 400s are easier to get more hp out of.

have you got the NC30 HRC manual?, it is at
http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30manuals/ ... Manual.PDF
regards
jon

[Benk]

take off the flywheel as well as the stator. I would test back to back running a flywheel and not running one, it might be a benefit to the torque characteristics to use one.

Sweet, confirms what I was thinking.

replica kit of Rick Oliver as you'll get everything you need (emulsion tubes etc).

Choice, Ill look into this. Dont suppose you have contact details for him (or his workshop or whatever)?

You can get around this by chopping the standard rubber stacks down, but you'll need to restrict the air jet which the hrc rubbers do (martin has just posted some pics of his nice modded carbs in one of his posts).

Sweet, Ill look into this more. I was thinking of buying some cheap metal eggcups, cutting the arse out of the end, and remaking them with bog (body filler). See if I can get a bit better shape out of them. Ill look into Martins pics.

Cheers

[Benk]

To get the most out of the bike for least amount of money the order I would do things in is;
(1) Put it on a weight loss rogram, especialy unsprung weight.
(2) Upgrade the suspension; respring both ends for your weight, revalve the front, revalve or upgrade the rear shock depending on the rules that you run in.
(3) Brakes; overhaul the standard calipers, fit decent pads both ends and braided lines on the front.
(4) Exhaust; fit at the minimum a half system and decent can, full system is nice but the rear is where most of the gains are made.
(5) Intake; RVF carbies, Rick Olliver HRC replica kit, Ram/cold air.
(6) Ignition; Rick Olliver programmable ignition with RVF HRC map

Yeah, weightloss was undertaken by the previous owner (attacked the thing with an angle grinder), but Im trying to get rid of more (total loss, possibly the starter depending how heavy it is, rewiring, etc). Currently has a RC30 rear shock in it, which seems to cart my arse around alright (100kg), front feels like it could do with some more gusto though. Braided lines will be next I reckon. Any clues on where to get some? Ive got a sprint tank and a fibreglass cover, so this gives me alot more access into the airbox, so I think good cold air (with plans for ram air) and a good tune up before the next meeting is in order.

IMHO the NC30s strengths are decent handling and brakes, the other 400s are easier to get more hp out of.

Yeah, but they dont look or sound anywhere near as good as the saucy little V4

[Cammo]

You can get around this by chopping the standard rubber stacks down, but you'll need to restrict the air jet which the hrc rubbers do (martin has just posted some pics of his nice modded carbs in one of his posts).

Sweet, Ill look into this more. I was thinking of buying some cheap metal eggcups, cutting the arse out of the end, and remaking them with bog (body filler). See if I can get a bit better shape out of them. Ill look into Martins pics.

Cheers

Sounds good. If you do make other stacks just remember you need to restrict the air jet, as this was a function of the hrc stacks.

My bro tried to make some replica hrc stacks by taking mould off mine, but it wasn't easy. Also made some carbon fibre stacks which looked great but were hard to attach to the carbs.

Here's mine, you can see the shroud on the stack that covers the air jet: