Got to kick my nc30 to change gear!!!!!!!!!

[Biff]

Hi Guys,

Did some testing at Oulton park on wenesday to get to grips with my new quick shifter on my NC30 race bike, but had problems with with the gearbox or something in there, its only the second time out on this bike so i dont even know if it was already like that.(previous test was 3 sisters, didnt get owt of 3rd gear)
When on the gas going through the gears every so often i had to realy bang the gear shifter to get it to change, and also the odd time when it had changed gear it `popped` back down on its own as if it hadnt gon in propperly.

Ive been through the forum to find if anything has happend to anyone else but cnt find owt, has anyone had a similar problem or any advice??

Cheers Phil....

[CMSMJ1]

Is it in race shift or std?

If it has bene altered get down and chekc whether the two little punch marks on the output shaft and the gear linkage are lined up (or directly opposite)

What type of shifter is it? How much slack?

How tight is your linkage rod etc - is it a bit flappy with age?

[Biff]

Hi Mate,

Its in race shift, there is a bit of slack ( you can move the gear leaver about 8-10mm before it resists).
The shifter is a trickshifter2,
I turned the linkage round directly..

[CMSMJ1]

Does it do it with a solid shifter rod? Have you got one to try it?

I had gear jumping issues before I put my bikes to race shift and now I can kick into gear and it pretty much stays in.

Sometimes it can be a technique issue - could you adjust the level of the toe peg so that you get a more direct stamp on it?

[Biff]

Ive got the old shift rod i can try, i will have to take off ther quickshifter, im testing on the 30th at 3 sisters again so i will do some laps as it is and then change the shift rod.

I also changed the toe peg from a standard tyga with the rubber on it to a billet one i had which is slightly longer and thinner, i suppose that means im having to put more pressure on it with it being longer!!?? will switch that back to the tyga one..

So you dont think it could be gearbox problems?? Hope not!!

[Spike16]

being longer you should have to put less pressure on it as you have more leverage

[CMSMJ1]

yes, but it has further to travel and so might not be quite engaging every time - especially with a 1cm of slop in the linkage..

That is what my dollar is on - nowt wrong with gearbox..user error

[Biff]

So is there a way of taking the play out of the gear shaft??

[CMSMJ1]

If the play is at the peg then you might get away with packing it with something?

The longer lever that SPike notes is a good call - might mean that you are just not pushing it in far enough.

If you concentrated on kicking it in firmly for the next few sessions I am sure your problem would go away?

What rearsets do you use?

[Biff]

There tyga rearsets.
The rearsets are in good condition and fairy new.

The main play is not at the peg, its in the rotation of the main splined rod, which then relays back to about 8mm of travell on the lever & peg when you push.