NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
Sorry NGneer, could see it just now very helpful thanks. In the meantime I could machine my flywheel downgrading from 1797 grams to 1343. Not so much but a little improvement.NGneer wrote: ↑Fri Dec 01, 2017 6:16 pmLigurt - as requested.ligurt wrote:I'm working on my vf400f racing bike and am planning to lighten the flywheel and generator. Could you please measure the outer diameter of the generator and the inner diameter of the flywheel? Infact I'm wandering if a swap is possible or even fitting the gsxr1000 k5 generator that some mount on their bikes. In addition it would be very helpful to know the flywheel/generator exact weight.
Thanks
Pietro
The GSXR conversion is a tried and tested modification but you will need a new flywheel cover from Rick Oliver (http://www.400greybike.com/files/new%20stocklist.doc) and apparently "GSXR rotor weighs 600g vs 1.8kg for the stock NC30 unit and gives greatly improved pickup".
Hope that helps
Thanks a lot
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
I managed to get a couple more hours in the garage today and started by refitting the front sprocket cover and then the speedo drive with a new cable and plastic drive thingy.
The other end of the cable goes into a mechanical to digital converter which in turn plugs into my new Koso digital speedo. I know you can set this up with magnate pick ups on the front disc but I didn’t wan the extra cable running down the forks so went for this option instead. The final setting up with the speedo (moment of truth) will be when I actually get out for a run for the first time, but all looks good for now.
Having done that I moved onto fitting some more of the bodywork I had acquired for this build. First things first and as I went to fit the nose cone/windscreen brace I suddenly realise in my eagerness to fi the carbon frame protectors, I had covered up the holes where the screen brace fits….Dohhhhh!
Having pondered the various options for a while I decided the best way forward was to blind drill the holes using some precision measurements taken from the other bike. Having measured (and measured again) the theoretical location of the holes on the other side was marked onto the frame protectors.
Using a small drill as an exploratory hole I confirmed I was in the right place (plus/minus) and then opened up the hole with a bigger drill. The Gods must have been smiling on me today as both holes were spot on.
The screen brace was promptly fitted and the rest of the fairing I have were test fitted for the first time. I know when I got the fairings there was a spacer for the nose cone attachment, but I have no idea where that has gone so I will have to make a new one. In the meantime it was fudged with a longer bolt and the rest was all loosely nailed together.
There are still a few finishing off jobs I need to do, but she is more or less there, however I now have a new problem.
I always had a specific idea for the paint scheme I wanted to do on this one. Now having got a few quotes for the scheme I want to do, I am going to be looking at between 1500 and 2400 quid for paint! So….do I spend the cash and create what was always in my head, or….. admit the obvious fact that this is already ¾ of the way to being a Carl Fogarty “Honda Britain” rep and embrace that scheme for a lot less cash and then put the rest of the money into something else?
Hmmmmmm – must ponder
The other end of the cable goes into a mechanical to digital converter which in turn plugs into my new Koso digital speedo. I know you can set this up with magnate pick ups on the front disc but I didn’t wan the extra cable running down the forks so went for this option instead. The final setting up with the speedo (moment of truth) will be when I actually get out for a run for the first time, but all looks good for now.
Having done that I moved onto fitting some more of the bodywork I had acquired for this build. First things first and as I went to fit the nose cone/windscreen brace I suddenly realise in my eagerness to fi the carbon frame protectors, I had covered up the holes where the screen brace fits….Dohhhhh!
Having pondered the various options for a while I decided the best way forward was to blind drill the holes using some precision measurements taken from the other bike. Having measured (and measured again) the theoretical location of the holes on the other side was marked onto the frame protectors.
Using a small drill as an exploratory hole I confirmed I was in the right place (plus/minus) and then opened up the hole with a bigger drill. The Gods must have been smiling on me today as both holes were spot on.
The screen brace was promptly fitted and the rest of the fairing I have were test fitted for the first time. I know when I got the fairings there was a spacer for the nose cone attachment, but I have no idea where that has gone so I will have to make a new one. In the meantime it was fudged with a longer bolt and the rest was all loosely nailed together.
There are still a few finishing off jobs I need to do, but she is more or less there, however I now have a new problem.
I always had a specific idea for the paint scheme I wanted to do on this one. Now having got a few quotes for the scheme I want to do, I am going to be looking at between 1500 and 2400 quid for paint! So….do I spend the cash and create what was always in my head, or….. admit the obvious fact that this is already ¾ of the way to being a Carl Fogarty “Honda Britain” rep and embrace that scheme for a lot less cash and then put the rest of the money into something else?
Hmmmmmm – must ponder
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
Nice overalls in that video!
I think the fogarty rep would look good, don't see many of them at all either.
Look forward to seeing the finished product at cadwell I hope!
I think the fogarty rep would look good, don't see many of them at all either.
Look forward to seeing the finished product at cadwell I hope!
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
Why not just paint it yourself>?
Get a large compressor & some water traps on EBAY for say £500 - you can always sell it after.
Get a decent paint gun 2nd hand - lightly used - £150 ish
Primer / base / clear - £200 - RS Paints
Stickers - £1-150 - Image Works
so for approx £1000 you can do it yourself & learn a heap of new skills too.
Get a large compressor & some water traps on EBAY for say £500 - you can always sell it after.
Get a decent paint gun 2nd hand - lightly used - £150 ish
Primer / base / clear - £200 - RS Paints
Stickers - £1-150 - Image Works
so for approx £1000 you can do it yourself & learn a heap of new skills too.
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
Lol - EngO in Overalls.....nearly as scary as an Officer with a map
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
So I am on late shift this week but that does actually mean I get more spannering time during the day as the Mrs is at work. I am still pondering what to do paint scheme-wise but either way the fitting of the fairings still needed some fettling. As such for the past couple of days I have mostly been doing that. This has been made a bit more challenging having to be so careful when handling everything and repeatedly removing and fitting the fairings in case this does end up being the final paintwork.
Anyway I started with the nose cone as I knew that needed a spacer at least. I know I got one with the fairings when I bought them, but somewhere over the last few years and house moves…it has got lost. I forgot to take a picture, but when I took the headlight covers off, you could see how low the fairings were sitting compared to where they need to be. With a few strips of thin ally I made some test brackets and kept bending and shaping until I had one that when fitted and the fairing was held in place, sat nicely behind the nose cone bolt hole. This bracket was then replicated in something thicker and a captive nut was fitted to take the nose cone bolt.
Nose cone refitted and everything lines up nicely.
Moving onto the lower fairings I started by fitting some D ring Dzeus fasteners.
Having sorted those out I turned my attention to the lack of radiator grill. Particularly with new rads I want some sort of protection, but also I think the bike just wouldn’t look complete without a grill.
Amongst my spare bits I actually found a good condition OEM radiator grill.
However to get that to fit was going to require some modifications and I was reluctant to start modifying a ‘good’ OEM grill which I might use on the other bike. I had to pop down to the local equivalent of B&Q for some longer countersunk Allen bolts (more on that later)and whilst I was there just thought I would have a look to see what mesh they had, and result!
A new piece was cut to size and fitted it with three of those self retaining screw clips (I am sure there is a more technical name)to line up with the holes already in the fairing. The glory of the mesh is the screws will go through that as well. I gave the mesh a little bend/shaping to fit the double curve of the V piece a bit more and fitted it.
Must say I am pretty happy with that as a result
When I first fitted the fairings I did notice that the exhaust pipes were either touching or virtually touching in a couple of places. I was starting to worry I would either have to change the exhaust or the fairings, but after a couple of days mulling it over I came up with an idea in the early hours (as I often do) . I wondered if I could use the lower fairing mounts both to secure the fairing, but also to hold it off slightly. I had an idea in my head (hence the trip to get the longer Allen bolts) and having got home tried it out.
Basically with a large washer on the inside of the fairing I put a couple of nuts on the (longer) fairing bolt before screwing it into the mounting bracket. This way I could secure the fairing between the countersunk panel washer on the outside and the plain washer on the inside using the first nut. This would be locked in place using the second (lock) nut and then I could use the bolt itself to effectively push the fairing down/out.
Tightening the two nuts had to be done at the end so you could still turn the bolt and the lock nut on the end of the bolt in the picture was an afterthought and is actually unnecessary. Well the idea seems have worked and with this done on both sides and played around with a bit, the exhausts were no longer touching the fairings and had what I think would have been sufficient clearance not to cause any problems as it was. Just for belt and braces I whipped the lowers of again and fitted some heat shield tape as well.
Everything refitted and with a little bit of effort everything lines up nicely and there is still clearance between the exhaust pipes and the fairings.
I am waiting on a couple of bits in the post now so can turn my attention to something that, whilst it works fine, has been niggling me. Basically the can strap goes over the Ethos badge and I would prefer it if I could effectively move it a couple of inches to the left so the strap sat just in front of the badge.
Searching on the web I found a picture (with no link to follow) showing what looks to be like a selection of hangers with the same mounting holes but with varying degrees of offset for the can strap mounting hole.
I know I am a tart , but I don’t have much else to do until my stuff turns up so does anyone have any idea if an alternative hanger from a different bike would give me that @2’’ step to the left?
Anyway I started with the nose cone as I knew that needed a spacer at least. I know I got one with the fairings when I bought them, but somewhere over the last few years and house moves…it has got lost. I forgot to take a picture, but when I took the headlight covers off, you could see how low the fairings were sitting compared to where they need to be. With a few strips of thin ally I made some test brackets and kept bending and shaping until I had one that when fitted and the fairing was held in place, sat nicely behind the nose cone bolt hole. This bracket was then replicated in something thicker and a captive nut was fitted to take the nose cone bolt.
Nose cone refitted and everything lines up nicely.
Moving onto the lower fairings I started by fitting some D ring Dzeus fasteners.
Having sorted those out I turned my attention to the lack of radiator grill. Particularly with new rads I want some sort of protection, but also I think the bike just wouldn’t look complete without a grill.
Amongst my spare bits I actually found a good condition OEM radiator grill.
However to get that to fit was going to require some modifications and I was reluctant to start modifying a ‘good’ OEM grill which I might use on the other bike. I had to pop down to the local equivalent of B&Q for some longer countersunk Allen bolts (more on that later)and whilst I was there just thought I would have a look to see what mesh they had, and result!
A new piece was cut to size and fitted it with three of those self retaining screw clips (I am sure there is a more technical name)to line up with the holes already in the fairing. The glory of the mesh is the screws will go through that as well. I gave the mesh a little bend/shaping to fit the double curve of the V piece a bit more and fitted it.
Must say I am pretty happy with that as a result
When I first fitted the fairings I did notice that the exhaust pipes were either touching or virtually touching in a couple of places. I was starting to worry I would either have to change the exhaust or the fairings, but after a couple of days mulling it over I came up with an idea in the early hours (as I often do) . I wondered if I could use the lower fairing mounts both to secure the fairing, but also to hold it off slightly. I had an idea in my head (hence the trip to get the longer Allen bolts) and having got home tried it out.
Basically with a large washer on the inside of the fairing I put a couple of nuts on the (longer) fairing bolt before screwing it into the mounting bracket. This way I could secure the fairing between the countersunk panel washer on the outside and the plain washer on the inside using the first nut. This would be locked in place using the second (lock) nut and then I could use the bolt itself to effectively push the fairing down/out.
Tightening the two nuts had to be done at the end so you could still turn the bolt and the lock nut on the end of the bolt in the picture was an afterthought and is actually unnecessary. Well the idea seems have worked and with this done on both sides and played around with a bit, the exhausts were no longer touching the fairings and had what I think would have been sufficient clearance not to cause any problems as it was. Just for belt and braces I whipped the lowers of again and fitted some heat shield tape as well.
Everything refitted and with a little bit of effort everything lines up nicely and there is still clearance between the exhaust pipes and the fairings.
I am waiting on a couple of bits in the post now so can turn my attention to something that, whilst it works fine, has been niggling me. Basically the can strap goes over the Ethos badge and I would prefer it if I could effectively move it a couple of inches to the left so the strap sat just in front of the badge.
Searching on the web I found a picture (with no link to follow) showing what looks to be like a selection of hangers with the same mounting holes but with varying degrees of offset for the can strap mounting hole.
I know I am a tart , but I don’t have much else to do until my stuff turns up so does anyone have any idea if an alternative hanger from a different bike would give me that @2’’ step to the left?
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
If that heatshield tape is just speed tape it won't be that effective. Ask me how I know....
Some proper sticky back matting can be bad for cheap off ebay and works far better
Some proper sticky back matting can be bad for cheap off ebay and works far better
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
Oli,bikemonkey wrote: ↑Wed May 23, 2018 9:27 pmIf that heatshield tape is just speed tape it won't be that effective. Ask me how I know....
Some proper sticky back matting can be bad for cheap off ebay and works far better
Thanks for the heads up and it is indeed Speed tape I don't think I will actually need it as I have managed to make sure there is an air gap between all pipes and Plastics.
Having said that I have a couple of things that might take a week or two to sort out,......so I have just ordered some of the proper stuff from Amazon and will bang that on as well. Better safe than sorry
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
I think they're called spire clips
A very quick experiment shows this
[IMG]http://i66.tinypic.com/102qyqp.jpg[/IMG]
The dotted outline is the position the mount moves to if you keep the rear bolt hole in place and rotate it clockwise to the point where a fresh front bolt hole can be drilled in the bottom left corner as opposed to the top corner. If you see what I mean...
It measures as (about) 82mm between the bolt holes and 174 from the rear one to the can mount. 2" movement at the end would therefore need about 1" at the top. There might be just enough meat on it to do that. With a little relocation of the rear hole too I reckon it might just work...
Al
A very quick experiment shows this
[IMG]http://i66.tinypic.com/102qyqp.jpg[/IMG]
The dotted outline is the position the mount moves to if you keep the rear bolt hole in place and rotate it clockwise to the point where a fresh front bolt hole can be drilled in the bottom left corner as opposed to the top corner. If you see what I mean...
It measures as (about) 82mm between the bolt holes and 174 from the rear one to the can mount. 2" movement at the end would therefore need about 1" at the top. There might be just enough meat on it to do that. With a little relocation of the rear hole too I reckon it might just work...
Al
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Re: NGneers NC30 build thread (8 years + in the making)
I like your thinking Al and see where you are coming from
This hanger actually already has a second set of holes drilled under the original ones (I assume to lift it up slightly) so the solution might already be there as you describe just by using the upper hole at the rear and lower hole on the front. I shall have a play next time the seat unit comes off
This hanger actually already has a second set of holes drilled under the original ones (I assume to lift it up slightly) so the solution might already be there as you describe just by using the upper hole at the rear and lower hole on the front. I shall have a play next time the seat unit comes off