GK76 Fuel tank/tap

[willandrip]

The pic. is just to show where/how to measure from.
Setting should be done as your method.....the needle valve just sealing.

It often pays to replace the needle valve assy. on older bikes.....the internal springs lose tension over so many years and become hard to set and seat correctly.

Tony did a good job on his site; Liteck Blairs seal kit is the way forward though.
I think Blair does a write up of installation on his sales page too.

The airscrew setting is individual to each machine......the amount of turns out is only a base setting.
Often each carb in the bank will be set differently to get a consistent idle and clean pick up.

Carbs, having so many variable settings , are best tuned when all other avenues have been ventured.
Hence in this case it is recommended to change the thermostat to eliminate that from the cool running scenario.
It is a very simple job.

[stripes1976]

I speak for myself, Jay, Chris and others that helped Tony out for a long time with his wife's sp2. We spent a lot of time emailing and posting on threads to help him out and to be repaid by publishing our emails and posts without permission or thanks was not called for. It annoys me when people take credit for others knowledge.

Rant over. Sorry been a long time coming.

[willandrip]

It is indeed a great shame/annoyance that contributions from others were not attributed in that case, stripes . !

[KiwiBiker]

I speak for myself, Jay, Chris and others that helped Tony out for a long time with his wife's sp2. We spent a lot of time emailing and posting on threads to help him out and to be repaid by publishing our emails and posts without permission or thanks was not called for. It annoys me when people take credit for others knowledge.

Rant over. Sorry been a long time coming.

Fair enough, I did see an acknowledgement at the bottom of his page to others who helped. I guess because he wrote up comprehensive notes with good pictures etc and and posted it on the net then it is he who gets the accolades. I see your position fully though and I personally thank you.
You cant buy that sort of info often, you have to gain it the hard way and its great to be able to come in on you guys coat tales and lap it up.

I'm one of the more senior members on the CBR300R web site and often spend time photographing and uploading images of my bike etc to help explain problems others may be having. It shits me too when you receive no acknowledgement or thanks for it. Maybe it's a sign of the changing times, I dunno.... still rude tho.

[Variablevalves suck]

You need to be a little careful with the info on Tony's blog as he talks about using non standard size orings
This can give as bad a result as old ones.

Best with the correct size and always Viton.

[KiwiBiker]

OK, so some weeks on I finally dedicated this wkd to getting the Lite tek kit installed in the carbs and to get them back on the bike.

In the mean time I had the tank propped up with a plastic pottle under the fuel tap. No fuel in the pottle so I'm happy that taps not leaking.

Firstly, thanks for the advice on getting the Lite Tek 32 piece kit. Prompt service, good price and all the O rings and gaskets fitted perfectly.

Tony's notes actually dont have much info on pulling the carbs to pieces and I had never worked on a bank of flat slide Mikuni's before so it was a learning curve for me. The bit where I got stumped was when i went to replace the slide housing O ring. I couldn't get the housing out so I assumed I needed to do something else first before it would release but couldn't work out what the hell it was. I didnt need to do anything, it was just stuck/seized basically. Eventually I resorted to trying to pull out the housing of the next carb along and hey presto it all made sense. Three of the crabs had the emulsion tube stuck in the float holder and were shits to get apart. I used synthetic oil when i reassembled.
The carbs were very clean inside apart from some black rubbery residue/particles underneath the top plastic cap. Not sure if it is off the diaphragm or what?

The only cock up i made was when re-fitting the main jets i used a 7mm socket and a 1/4" ratchet. Too much torque, i should have been using a flat blade screw driver for better feel. I ended up bending one of the main jets because I kept on screwing once it had bottomed out. Ham fisted I know. I even damaged the new O ring a bit. I was so pissed off with myself... I straightened it carefully as best i could but i was sure I had ruined the whole purpose of my work.

All up the whole exercise took me 8hrs over two days, thank god I wasnt paying for someone else to do it.

So I wasn't feeling confident when i finally turned the bike over. Initially it wouldn't start and i had that sinking feeling in my stomach. The trouble was I had gotten use to starting the bike without choke because of the O ring issue and now it needed a little! Away it went and it seemed to be running pretty sweetly in the workshop, not that it was a particularly bad runner before. So I sneaked around a couple of blocks (its a track bike) and came back with a smile on my face. It all seems good. I'm not fully counting the chooks yet tho until I've done a track day which is nxt wkd.

I did notice in the 10 - 15 minutes I had it running that the temp gauge still only got to one quarter so i think i need to change the thermostat as suggested. Any advice on this job and where to get one from and what part to order would be gratefully received.

Thanks guys,
Al.

[willandrip]

Its awful when you have trouble with "crabs".....

[KiwiBiker]

Its awful when you have trouble with "crabs".....

Spelling sorted, thanks. Can't say I've ever had a crab issue and hopefully never!