Just got an NC35, have a few questions about future mods

[hkwill]

Okay first thing is first, suspension, sprockets and rubber.

I have scoured the forums and tried to piece together as much info as I can - just want to get feedback on what I've learnt. Bike will be strictly for road (no tracks here), most of which are mountainous twisties.

Suspension:

Front fork springs/oil: ??????

Rear shock: Hagon M61037 ($387USD)

Sprocket/chain sizes: 14/40? 14/38? 525 or 520??

Tires: Bridgestone BT090 ($295USD set)

I just put on a cheap (read: chinese wr's end can) - sounds alright http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYIdjJ9XFME but wondering if it has fudged my carb settings. I also have noticed a flat spot around 7k (with original can as well). Can this be solved by rejetting only, or will I need to get a full exhaust and air filter as well? Also replaced clutch plates with oem.

Pic: http://i.imgur.com/clJLv.jpg

[CRM]

Hi, first thing i will say, unless you sub 10 stone in weight, avoid the hagon. no better than factory.
go for a nitron. much better

If a flat spot now obvious after fitting a can, try going up just one size on the main jet. loads here about carbs and settings and how fickle they can be

[Cammo]

Front fork springs/oil: ??????

Rick Oliver sells a quality fork spring kit (with oil), his stock list can be found here: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=26174

Sprocket/chain sizes: 14/40? 14/38? 525 or 520??

Standard gearing is 15/38 (525). Personally I think the standard rvf gearing is great for the road. If you need new chain and sprockets consider upgrading to 520 as it's lighter. Cheap chain and sprockets are false economy on these bikes, they're hard on them because they don't use a cush drive, so buy a high quality chain at least. Any gearing different from standard will throw the speedo out as it's driven from the gearbox, just something to be aware of.

Tires: Bridgestone BT090 ($295USD set)

Super grippy tyres that wear quick, but they bring out the best in these bikes and you won't be disappointed!


Regarding carb flatspot, because most of these bikes have passed through numerous owner's hands you need to remove the carbs and see what's in there before any recommendations can be made. If you're at altitude it will affect jetting requirements also. Removing, cleaning and adjusting the carbs could clear up some of this issue.

[hkwill]

Thanks for the help!

CRM: How bad is the hagon shock? THe only reason I'm changing it is because the mech said my original is knackered. There's also squeaking coming from what I assume to be the shock when I bounce up and down. The mech said he could source showa, ohlins and hagon - hagon being the cheapest. I haven't seen anything on here about new ohlins or showa shocks that fit the RVF so I'm not exactly sure what he's going on about. Can't really afford new Nitron shock...

Cammo: The reason I want to change sprockets is because first gear tops out right at the speed I'm riding most of the time and want power out of. Hard to explain but there are a lot of twisties out here and I am topping out first at ~85km/h. Sure the powerband goes forever, but first just feels a little too long for the riding I'm doing - maybe I should just change my riding style.

Are there any aftermarket fork springs from major brands (Showa must make one that fits, right?). I know Rick's stuff is probably best, but I imagine the shipping costs would be really high for some of the heavier stuff.

[pip]

I have experienced 2 Hagon shocks on other bikes, they are dire. Why not get yours refurbed?

Pip

[Cammo]

Racetech springs are great and available in most countries.

It would help if you put where you're located in your profile.