just bought a RVF400 - failed on me this morning

[Enzymer]

managed tog get some testing done today.

Battery showed 12.7V at first (bike not running), then i managed to start the bike and i let it run for 2 minutes while reving it from time to time to 5K. After 2 minutes the bike lost power with no response from the throttle and eventually stalled. After that the battery showed 10.7V (bike not running).

Later i managed to get bike going using a running start. At 5K RPM the battery measured 13.8V. Then again after 2-3 minutes it stalled.

I found the alternator output and all the three combinations (AB, AC, BC) measured 1.2 - 1.5 Ohm. I wasn't able to get the bike started at this point so couldn't measure the voltage at idle and 5K.

However, i did notice that that alternator output became very warm when i let the engine run for just 2-3 minutes. Is that normal?

Right now that battery is being charged again. What do you guys think is the next step, and have i eliminated/pinpointed anything?

[magg]

What part of the alternator output became very warm, are you referring to the rect/reg? Had the engine been idling for a few minutes before it stalled? Was the battery reading of 12.7 volts before you turned ON the ignition switch? Did the engine crank easily at the first attempt at starting and was the ignition switch still ON when you got the 10.7 volt battery reading after the engine stalled?

[Enzymer]

What part of the alternator output became very warm, are you referring to the rect/reg?

I'm referring to the white connector with the three yellow wires. Maybe that's not called the alternator output?

Had the engine been idling for a few minutes before it stalled?

Every time the engine stalled the had been idling 2 minutes (with the occasional rev to 5K)

Was the battery reading of 12.7 volts before you turned ON the ignition switch?

yes

Did the engine crank easily at the first attempt at starting and was the ignition switch still ON when you got the 10.7 volt battery reading after the engine stalled?

Engine did not crank easily at the first attempt, and ignition switch was OFF when i got the 10.7V reading

[magg]

Sounds like a dud battery, where are you in Sydney?

[Enzymer]

Sounds like a dud battery, where are you in Sydney?

don't you think a dud battery sounds too simple? i'm in clovelly

[magg]

Sent PM.

[magg]

What type of charger do you have? You could try recharging the battery, and then fit it to your bike, turn ON the ignition and measure the battery voltage while the headlights are ON. If the battery voltage does not remain above 12.0 volts for at least 15 minutes then the battery is suspect.

[Neosophist]

Magg sounds on the money here.

12.7 volts is almost fully charged (12.8 is fully charged from memory)

For it to drop that low so quick suggests its knackered.

The plug is probably getting hot becuase of shitty connections, clean off any corrosion before it melts.

If the battery is dud it wont take a good charge either so might cause the reg/rec to get hotter than normal.

[xivlia]

is this another me? oO

[speedy231278]

is this another me? oO

No, he's about 120 pages short so far.....