NC30 electric issue
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- Familiar Member
- Posts: 484
- Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:49 pm
- Bike owned: MG v35 II, NC30, MG NF Mil.
- Location: Germany
NC30 electric issue
I had intermittent partial loss of electrical power last night while on the way home. The oil/neutral lights would go very dim and the engine could barely keep running spluttering away at idle speed, no reaction to throttle. Yanking on the loom would occasionally get the power back.
This is what I found the next day:
- battery at 12V and would not charge to higher voltage.
- rectifier connectors were very corroded, cleaned that up
- the resistance between the alternator wires was 0.6, 0.6 and 0.9 ohm which is nominal
- my earths are fine, earth upgrade was recently installed and I cleaned up all the connectors except for the rectifiers
- battery and rectifier were replaced a year ago
- wiring loom is in a bad condition
- measured the resistances of the rectifier and they are all nominal except between the yellow(alternator) connectors where the resistance was infinite (spec is 30k-500k ohm)
- strange thing was that when I recharged the battery (still only 12V on the terminals) and started the bike I actually measured a lover voltage on at a higher rpm: 14V@1200rpm and 13V@4500rpm at the battery terminals.
What to do next? I don't want to start randomly replacing parts and hoping a bad component won't break them.
This is what I found the next day:
- battery at 12V and would not charge to higher voltage.
- rectifier connectors were very corroded, cleaned that up
- the resistance between the alternator wires was 0.6, 0.6 and 0.9 ohm which is nominal
- my earths are fine, earth upgrade was recently installed and I cleaned up all the connectors except for the rectifiers
- battery and rectifier were replaced a year ago
- wiring loom is in a bad condition
- measured the resistances of the rectifier and they are all nominal except between the yellow(alternator) connectors where the resistance was infinite (spec is 30k-500k ohm)
- strange thing was that when I recharged the battery (still only 12V on the terminals) and started the bike I actually measured a lover voltage on at a higher rpm: 14V@1200rpm and 13V@4500rpm at the battery terminals.
What to do next? I don't want to start randomly replacing parts and hoping a bad component won't break them.
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- Familiar Member
- Posts: 484
- Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:49 pm
- Bike owned: MG v35 II, NC30, MG NF Mil.
- Location: Germany
Re: NC30 electric issue
The rectifier is type sh693-12
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- Senior Member
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- Bike owned: VFR400
- Location: Blue Mountain NSW Australia
Re: NC30 electric issue
What actually is the earth upgrade kit?
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- Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:49 pm
- Bike owned: MG v35 II, NC30, MG NF Mil.
- Location: Germany
Re: NC30 electric issue
Connecting various earth points by separate wires instead of the frame.magg wrote:What actually is the earth upgrade kit?
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- Senior Member
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- Bike owned: VFR400
- Location: Blue Mountain NSW Australia
Re: NC30 electric issue
Could you be more specific, which points are connected to where exactly. IMO the minimum earth connection upgrade is the addition of a direct link between the -ve battery terminal and the chassis. The OEM design does not appear to have one, does your bike have such a connection?
Measure the voltage directly at the output terminals of the rect/reg, do you get a reliable 14.0 - 14.5 volts at this point.
Measure the voltage directly at the output terminals of the rect/reg, do you get a reliable 14.0 - 14.5 volts at this point.
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- Familiar Member
- Posts: 484
- Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:49 pm
- Bike owned: MG v35 II, NC30, MG NF Mil.
- Location: Germany
Re: NC30 electric issue
Earth wires from frame earth point to coils, starter motor and the regulator.magg wrote:Could you be more specific, which points are connected to where exactly. IMO the minimum earth connection upgrade is the addition of a direct link between the -ve battery terminal and the chassis. The OEM design does not appear to have one, does your bike have such a connection?
Measure the voltage directly at the output terminals of the rect/reg, do you get a reliable 14.0 - 14.5 volts at this point.
Main worry is why are my voltages at the battery decrease as the engine speed increases, it should be the other way around!
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 1918
- Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:55 pm
- Bike owned: VFR400
- Location: Blue Mountain NSW Australia
Re: NC30 electric issue
When you say you have added an earth from from the rect/reg does this mean you have spliced into the -ve lead of the rect/reg?
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Re: NC30 electric issue
From the mounting screw of the regulator.magg wrote:When you say you have added an earth from from the rect/reg does this mean you have spliced into the -ve lead of the rect/reg?
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- Senior Member
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- Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:55 pm
- Bike owned: VFR400
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Re: NC30 electric issue
Unless the heat sink of the rect/reg is internally connected to the -ve terminal of the rect/reg, your lead from the mounting screw to chassis services no purpose.
To check, you need to remove the rect/reg from your bike and measure the resistance between the metal heat sink and the the rect/reg -ve output terminal.
Have you measure the output voltage at the +ve and -ve output terminals of the rect/reg, do not disconnect the rect/reg.
To check, you need to remove the rect/reg from your bike and measure the resistance between the metal heat sink and the the rect/reg -ve output terminal.
Have you measure the output voltage at the +ve and -ve output terminals of the rect/reg, do not disconnect the rect/reg.
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Re: NC30 electric issue
It sounds like your regulator and or genny is broken.krisztian_andre wrote:Earth wires from frame earth point to coils, starter motor and the regulator.magg wrote:Could you be more specific, which points are connected to where exactly. IMO the minimum earth connection upgrade is the addition of a direct link between the -ve battery terminal and the chassis. The OEM design does not appear to have one, does your bike have such a connection?
Measure the voltage directly at the output terminals of the rect/reg, do you get a reliable 14.0 - 14.5 volts at this point.
Main worry is why are my voltages at the battery decrease as the engine speed increases, it should be the other way around!
Have you done electrical tests on it yet? There simple standard tests to get the output of the bike.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...