Valve clearance NC35

maciekmaciek19 · Post by **maciekmaciek19** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 2:40 pm

Hey Guys!

I want to check valve clearance on my RVF but never done it before.
Right now i have good access to the engin so this is the best time for this work.
Can you advise on how difficult this is and how time consuming. Also will I need any special tools apart from the feeler gauge?
Or maybe there is some guide on the board I couldnt find?

All comments much appreciated.
I cant wait to take this bike out finally.

Cheers

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 2:47 pm

look in the post directly above this one....

It is easy.just take your time and don't drop any into the sump

feeler gauge, some paper to make some notes of the sizes etc.

Don't expect to finish it in one go unless you have a lot of spare shims

measure it between the finger and the shim too - not the cam and the finger...I did that..it is annoying to start again!

RVFHooligan · Post by **RVFHooligan** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:12 pm

It's not bad at all if you have full access to the motor. As stated above follow the instructions in the thread above and write down your measurements on the sheet you can print out. And one more thing, it's REAL easy if ALL your valves are within spec!

maciekmaciek19 · Post by **maciekmaciek19** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:15 pm

CMSMJ1 wrote:look in the post directly above this one....

It is easy.just take your time and don't drop any into the sump

feeler gauge, some paper to make some notes of the sizes etc.

Don't expect to finish it in one go unless you have a lot of spare shims

measure it between the finger and the shim too - not the cam and the finger...I did that..it is annoying to start again!

Awesome!
I will need some shims huh?
Since I don't know about shims yet would you be kind enough to drop in a link so I could buy some?
Are those shims model specific? I'm sorry to be a pain, just don't want to screw up, not on this bike.
Ta

maciekmaciek19 · Post by **maciekmaciek19** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 2:22 pm

So if the gap is not within spec then I have to get a shim of different thickness to compensate?
Or is this a case where shims get worn and I just need a genuine ones to replace?
In that other thread it says if you're lucky you'll not need any shims...
I'm sure that the gaps are wrong on my bike because they have never been checked (i think)
So basically what do I do if the gap is of wrong size?

Thanks

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 3:17 pm

You need to get a hayness as it explains it well.

basically - the tolerance ofr your inlet valves is between .12 and .18. So..the middle ground is .15

If you measure it and find your clearance is .10 then you look at the shiim already in - say a 234 size.

You then need to get a +.5 shim - a 239 and stick that in.

sorted.

hope that made some sense. the shims do not really wear out - they are available from most shops in various sizes but without measuring first you do not know what you need. Also, by measuring all of them you will be able to move the shims about between valves to get them in tolerance. I needed 5 the first time I did it and I now have a stash of 12 shim spares from a spare motor.

It sounds complicate but once you get into it you are working the shims needed in your head and aiming for the middle of the tolerance allowed - .12 to .18 for inlet and .21 to .27 for the exhauust. - so ideal measurements are .15 nlet and .24 exhaust.

maciekmaciek19 · Post by **maciekmaciek19** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 3:56 pm

CMSMJ1 wrote:You need to get a hayness as it explains it well.

basically - the tolerance ofr your inlet valves is between .12 and .18. So..the middle ground is .15

If you measure it and find your clearance is .10 then you look at the shiim already in - say a 234 size.

You then need to get a +.5 shim - a 239 and stick that in.

sorted.

hope that made some sense. the shims do not really wear out - they are available from most shops in various sizes but without measuring first you do not know what you need. Also, by measuring all of them you will be able to move the shims about between valves to get them in tolerance. I needed 5 the first time I did it and I now have a stash of 12 shim spares from a spare motor.

It sounds complicate but once you get into it you are working the shims needed in your head and aiming for the middle of the tolerance allowed - .12 to .18 for inlet and .21 to .27 for the exhauust. - so ideal measurements are .15 nlet and .24 exhaust.

Yup! This makes it clear.
Looks like I will need that micrometer to measure the shims.
Thanks mate! Very helpful!

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 3:59 pm

the shims have the sizes etched in the top of them so new ones are easy to spot! - a micrometer is useflul still... and so are some good feeler gauges.

fastdruid · Post by **fastdruid** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:28 pm

On high mileage engines the laser etched number can wear off so you may need a micrometer.

The same shims are used on just about every honda.

Druid

maciekmaciek19 · Post by **maciekmaciek19** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:46 am

fastdruid wrote:On high mileage engines the laser etched number can wear off so you may need a micrometer.

The same shims are used on just about every honda.

Druid

Oh cool! that's handy. There should be no problem getting shims at the dealers on the day if I need them.
I'm planning to get the job done next Saturday. I'll see how it goes.
Thanks guys!

Valve clearance NC35

Valve clearance NC35

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