NC30 F3-TT Manual
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NC30 F3-TT Manual
Hi all,
Just wondering if there is an English translation of the 1990 NC30 F3-TT Manual kicking about? I was going to hassle some folks at work for their language translation skills, but thought I would check here first!
Cheers
Luke
Just wondering if there is an English translation of the 1990 NC30 F3-TT Manual kicking about? I was going to hassle some folks at work for their language translation skills, but thought I would check here first!
Cheers
Luke
- CMSMJ1
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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
Have you not got the RVF translation the HRC fiche?
I found you can make out what the crack is by reading that, or the RC30 kit manual in English. Stuff like mods, clearances and measurements are all in numbers you can read.
I found you can make out what the crack is by reading that, or the RC30 kit manual in English. Stuff like mods, clearances and measurements are all in numbers you can read.
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
Nope! Don't have either of those, but I'll track them down and have a read :)
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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
http://akhara.com/nc30/nc30manuals/lukemillar wrote:Nope! Don't have either of those, but I'll track them down and have a read :)
The NC30 manual, not surprisingly details how to correctly install the HRC kit parts, like the gear-shift return spring etc, unless you have these parts then there really isn't a lot you can do.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
That is the '92 SP manual. The '90 TT F3 one goes into more detail about things like modifying intake ports etc.
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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
Ah yes i was getting them mixed up.
Thats the one that shows you how to cut the valve angles etc after installing the con-rods / pistons and cams / shells.
Do you have all that gubbins or goign to do it to a standard engine?
The only-downside is that 'idle-ing' is comprimised after this... the TTF3 spec bikes idle at 3-4000rpm.
Same with the ZXR f3 setup.
Thats the one that shows you how to cut the valve angles etc after installing the con-rods / pistons and cams / shells.
Do you have all that gubbins or goign to do it to a standard engine?
The only-downside is that 'idle-ing' is comprimised after this... the TTF3 spec bikes idle at 3-4000rpm.
Same with the ZXR f3 setup.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- Cammo
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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
Yep, much of the tt-f3 info is similar to that in the rc30 kit manual.CMSMJ1 wrote: or the RC30 kit manual in English.
You can get electronic copies of the rc30 kit manuals (in English) here: http://rc30.100webcustomers.com/HRC_KIT_MANUALS.html
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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
I have a few of those gear shift sets they are both NC30 & RC30 parts. I was told the following about them:Neosophist wrote:http://akhara.com/nc30/nc30manuals/lukemillar wrote:Nope! Don't have either of those, but I'll track them down and have a read :)
The NC30 manual, not surprisingly details how to correctly install the HRC kit parts, like the gear-shift return spring etc, unless you have these parts then there really isn't a lot you can do.
The "shifter" (item 1) likely has a smaller dimension from the center of the the little pin protrusion which the shift arm acts on to the center of the "shifter" and the shift drum (not shown). This would reduce the throw of the shifter arm albeit increasing the force required to shift gears. This would speed the gear change up as long as you really hit the shifter hard. No pussy footing around. The return spring pin, as shown in the diagram, has an offset built into it. This would be to compensate for the now altered position of the shift arm (not shown). To compensate for the new offset an adjustable spring return pin is needed. It is rotated into a position where the shifter pawls will be in the correct position as described in the HRC manual. This shifter kit was a later addition to the RC30. It does not appear in the early HRC kit manuals.
This shifter kit is analogous to how many of the aftermarket shifters such as Hurst, Mr. Gasket etc for muscle cars worked (reduce the throw of the lever by increasing the force required by your arm).

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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
Kind of half and half! I don't have the HRC kit parts, but then the engine isn't standard either. I understand what you're hinting at, but this thread isn't about 'going to do everything in that manual', I just want to read up on how HRC modified their intake ports on their F3 engines. I have already sort advice from elsewhere on NC30 porting specifics.Neosophist wrote:Do you have all that gubbins or goign to do it to a standard engine?
This is intended for a race bike, so the increased idle isn't an issueNeosophist wrote:The only-downside is that 'idle-ing' is comprimised after this... the TTF3 spec bikes idle at 3-4000rpm.
Cheers
Luke
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Re: NC30 F3-TT Manual
Thanks for that link Cammo!Cammo wrote:Yep, much of the tt-f3 info is similar to that in the rc30 kit manual.CMSMJ1 wrote: or the RC30 kit manual in English.
You can get electronic copies of the rc30 kit manuals (in English) here: http://rc30.100webcustomers.com/HRC_KIT_MANUALS.html
