Bike Has Been DYNO'd on RES (reserve)

[porndoguk]

the snorkel will give it more of an induction sound,

you WONT feel the 3hp at all im affraid need to be talking about 25bhp difference to feel anything change.

[butler46]

is the Snorkel (removed) the reason its making a deeper sound ? its a real different Sound,, before it was very V(ish) as now its deeper when i accelerate around 6k+ revs lol. doesnt sound different when revving it though (stand still/ in neutral) just riding, sounds like a differnet bike to before, thanks :D

btw remembered this Video, my bike about 7 months ago in JUNE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcT-asI0na4

butler

[porndoguk]

yeah pretty sure thats the sound you experianceing will be from the removal of the snorkel, id recomend putting it back in, as said earlier its designed to pull air in with force (venturi/vortex style) with it removed the air flow will be sucked in with less turbulance and will probally notice more noise at midrange but actually get a flat spot which youll not notice because it will SOUND faster.

[butler46]

Oh, one last thing, ive remembered,

The bike was (SETUP) with the snorkel in, reading a certain amount of HP then we was talking about different Air filters and what would be better and we discussed removing the Snorkel. then we put it on Dyno again, and i think there wasn't much difference, slightly worse if i was looking a tthe right Colour line, i think he was looking at the older line and was telling me it was better, think he got confused, anyway in the end of it, he told me it wouldnt do it any harm with more air getting through

but

the japanese designed it that way for a reason and with the the theories you have been mentioning then it must be put back ???

if the bike was DYNOd/set up with the snorkel then surely it should run better with it back on ??? the onyl way the snorkel would be better is if it then got set up properly, but that obv didnt happen, beacuse there was no way he was goign to re take off the fitle rand mess with the carbs for another Day

anyway what do you's think about me putting the Snorkel back on as it was Set up like that ??? should i try and cut off the FLAP at the bottom which restricts air getting through under the frame ?

thanks Guys :) butler

[skinnydog0_0]

NONONONONONONONONO to cutting of the flap NONONONONONONO
It will run liek a bag of nails if you do

[CMSMJ1]

Right on..

Leave the flaps and snorkel where they are. My race bike has them and the fuelling is spot on.

A lot of people seem to think that you need to ram air into an engine to make it work. Well, you can..but that takes a lot of design and so on and the NC was designed before anyone really got some proper ram air.

All an NC engine wants is to be able to suck in some cool air that is nice and still. By removing snorkels and flaps you are making the air more turbulent and so the bike likes it less.

@ Butler- if you've been speaking with Mr Dyno - what jets are you running?

[porndoguk]

NONONONONONONONONO to cutting of the flap NONONONONONONO
It will run liek a bag of nails if you do

dont mess with the rubber flap

however id like others thoughts on this, i have cut 2 25mm holes (red circles) and then dremelled out green lines
it seems to run.

[Neosophist]

Yea u can buy iridium plugs for the nc30/35 but they are not cheap
Would cost about £80-90 for a set of 4

and there horrid DENSOs

What's wrong with Denso plugs? There My plug of choice. (did you get a bad set?)

You can get Iridum ER9's but I don't think there really worth it.

Anyway, back to the original thread.

As people have been saying (i've only skimmed the thread) these bikes are very sensitive to changes around the airbox. Unless your planning on building a track-day weapon and want something that is rideable using the standard airbox (don't remove anything) and standard air filter will be more than adequate.

These bikes were designed and engineered to produce 60bhp which was the maximum permitted by Japanese law at the time of manufacture.

If you try to use a foam filter you'll need to adjust the carb jets to compensate for more air and it all becomes awkward trying to make the bike run ok. Even after all this the bike won't produce much more power.

To get more power your going to have to get serious (check out some of the members bikes) but power isn't everything, the 60hp from the factory is fine unless your competetive on trackdays, these bikes are made to go around bends. You can drop a couple of teeth on the cogs if you want some more accelleration grunt (at a reduction of overall speed) but if straight line accellearation if what your after you will be miles better selling it and buying a CBR600F. You'll save yourself money too.

For now i'd concentrate on getting the bike running great in the standard form, it's no good trying to tune a turd.

There old and may have been butchered by a monkey at some point. Cammo's carb guide is a great start, it'll show you how to strip and clean and set the carbs up to best possible factory spec. Since you have an aftermarket system people on here will be able to advise you what the best jets and pilot screw settings are.

While you have the carbs off set the valve clearnaces too, unless these are correct the bike wont' run properly, it can also damage the valves and stop the engine running properly.

Now that you have working carbs and valve clearances you want to sort the back-firing out... this is usually a slightly rich system letting air into the exhaust, when this happens the extra petrol ignites with a bang!

You probbaly have a leaking exhaust gasket, and / or a hole in the exhaust.

Removing the snorkal will let more air into the bike, which will LEAN out the mixture, since this has made the backfiring go away some it suggests that the bike was originally too RICH.

Removing the snorkal to fix this isn't the way to go, it is best to fix the main cause of the problem rather than treating the symptoms (cammos carb guide will see your right)

Then seal up the exhaust system and your good to go.

Circa 60hp is good! you might get a few over / under but you won't see much higher without spending more than an exhaust..

[butler46]

thanks for your advice, just put the snorkel back in place.. i am going for a ride. il llet yous know any differences, maybe it will sound different ???

anybody else recommend the 2 HOLE method under the snorkel ? by porngoduk ?

thanks again Adam

[CMSMJ1]

No.

Recommended settings are what the world's largest motorcycle company sent them out of their factory like...

Stop thinking you can get more air in there by drilling holes etc.

Standard filter, standard airbox and so on is by far and away the easiest and best overall setup for 95% of these bikes. If your Dyno man had any skills then you would have had the bike sorted..as it stands,without seeing the graphs..I say it is too rich and slow because of it.



That is my bike, smooth as you like (but heavily modded and it took ages!!)