'89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
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- CMSMJ1
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Your egg things are Cams. They live on the cam shaft. If they are marked up they aren't going to play nicely with the finger rockers.
you may have an oilway blockage somewhere, or a knackered oil pump/blocked strainer in the sump.
you may have an oilway blockage somewhere, or a knackered oil pump/blocked strainer in the sump.
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Cheers for the reply.
So i need to locate the oil pump and get it out and also take the sump off??
The cams haven't got gouges in 'em there just like surface marks, kind of like scuffs. when you run your finger over them they feel smooth.
Just off out to get a set feeler gauges, may as well do vlave cleances whlist the covers are off.
Cheers for the advice
Russ

So i need to locate the oil pump and get it out and also take the sump off??
The cams haven't got gouges in 'em there just like surface marks, kind of like scuffs. when you run your finger over them they feel smooth.
Just off out to get a set feeler gauges, may as well do vlave cleances whlist the covers are off.
Cheers for the advice
Russ

- CMSMJ1
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
The oil pump and strainer can be seen int he sump - if you get your self under the bike and unbolt the sump (After draining the oil) then you can see whaqt goes on.
have you a Haynes book of lies? Also, the service manual - go download it from akhara.com
If this is all the problem is you should have a "relatively" easy fix on your hands.
All this is great expereince too...just think how much you are learning with this moto and when it comes down to it...it was put together by hand and so yiu can take it apart and sort it no worries!!
have you a Haynes book of lies? Also, the service manual - go download it from akhara.com
If this is all the problem is you should have a "relatively" easy fix on your hands.
All this is great expereince too...just think how much you are learning with this moto and when it comes down to it...it was put together by hand and so yiu can take it apart and sort it no worries!!
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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- Settled in member
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- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:15 pm
- Bike owned: Cagiva Mito. VFR400R NC30
- Location: Worcester
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
haha i think this is what's referred to as a baptism of fire lol.
Ah well, i had to completely rebuild my mito but that was like Meccano compared to this beast. Still, I've found it much easier to just dive in with the spanners and making sure you rember where every thing goes.
I've got a haynes but that just confuses me. There apears to be no logic in the order of it and some of the photos are just stupid.
Hopefully it wil be a easy fix, altho judging by the past couple of weeks it's not looking good!
Ah well, back too it.
Cheers
Russ
Ah well, i had to completely rebuild my mito but that was like Meccano compared to this beast. Still, I've found it much easier to just dive in with the spanners and making sure you rember where every thing goes.
I've got a haynes but that just confuses me. There apears to be no logic in the order of it and some of the photos are just stupid.
Hopefully it wil be a easy fix, altho judging by the past couple of weeks it's not looking good!
Ah well, back too it.
Cheers
Russ
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
The cams are the bits which run across the top of the heads, the individual sticky-outy-bits are the cam lobes.
If you have the cam cover off and spin the engine with the starter button with the ignition kill switch off you should see oil getting pumped out of the galleries onto the various parts of the head.
I suspect the oil to the top of the head is routed through the centre oil tubes, the H shaped thing in the centre of the head and/or the silver pipe which runs up between the heads, it starts on the body under the coolant tube and attaches just under the cam cover, in the V between the heads. There is one on each set of cylinders, the lower fixing contains an oil jet which controls the amount of oil which flows to the heads (i think) this could be blocked.
Stupid question but there is plenty of oil in it isnt there, the VFR needs a lot compared to some bikes.
If you have the cam cover off and spin the engine with the starter button with the ignition kill switch off you should see oil getting pumped out of the galleries onto the various parts of the head.
I suspect the oil to the top of the head is routed through the centre oil tubes, the H shaped thing in the centre of the head and/or the silver pipe which runs up between the heads, it starts on the body under the coolant tube and attaches just under the cam cover, in the V between the heads. There is one on each set of cylinders, the lower fixing contains an oil jet which controls the amount of oil which flows to the heads (i think) this could be blocked.
Stupid question but there is plenty of oil in it isnt there, the VFR needs a lot compared to some bikes.
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Cheers OP i'll give all those sugestions a bash tomorrow. I had just filled her up with 2.4l of yammalube 10/40 semi synthetic and a hiflo filter :S
Manged to get the sump off and the oil screen thing out managed to get all this crap outta it

Can be helping having all that crap in ithere although the lumps of metal are a bit worring :S
Didn't get much futher than that but the battle will continue tomorrow.
not as scarey as it looks this 4t stuff.
Cheers
Russ
Manged to get the sump off and the oil screen thing out managed to get all this crap outta it

Can be helping having all that crap in ithere although the lumps of metal are a bit worring :S
Didn't get much futher than that but the battle will continue tomorrow.
not as scarey as it looks this 4t stuff.
Cheers
Russ
- skinnydog0_0
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Are they metal shavings next to the oil strainer?
If they were in the strainer, i think you will need a full engine strip, normal running engines don't have metal particals that size in them.
What colour are the bits?
If they were in the strainer, i think you will need a full engine strip, normal running engines don't have metal particals that size in them.
What colour are the bits?
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
A lot of that looks like gasket sealer but the lump to the right of the strainer looks worrying.
- CMSMJ1
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Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Can you wash them metal bits and put them in a photo where we can see them better?
That is a worry...but the reason for the oil starvation is pretty obvious!!
Am impressed with your skills man, you are definitely getting stuck in!
That is a worry...but the reason for the oil starvation is pretty obvious!!
Am impressed with your skills man, you are definitely getting stuck in!
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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- Settled in member
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:15 pm
- Bike owned: Cagiva Mito. VFR400R NC30
- Location: Worcester
Re: '89 VFR NC30 - Wont start.
Haha cheers mate. It out of nessity rather than choice but it's good to be learning again.
That big lump of metal was actually a piece of alloy!?! (metal colour on the outside and white on the inside)
I'll get a photo when i get back home. There were a few metal filings in there but i'm guessing these happened when i tried to start her without the shaft in, that holds the idel/reduction gear in place.
There was no metal bits in the oil i drained before taking the sump off. Again, i'm guessing but that's gotta be a good sign as it was new oil in there and it only started making that noise after putting the new oil in.
Anyway, checked the valve clearance all the ones at the front cylinders are fine but all but one on the back are over tollerance. where can i get new shims from??
Cheers
Russ
That big lump of metal was actually a piece of alloy!?! (metal colour on the outside and white on the inside)
I'll get a photo when i get back home. There were a few metal filings in there but i'm guessing these happened when i tried to start her without the shaft in, that holds the idel/reduction gear in place.
There was no metal bits in the oil i drained before taking the sump off. Again, i'm guessing but that's gotta be a good sign as it was new oil in there and it only started making that noise after putting the new oil in.
Anyway, checked the valve clearance all the ones at the front cylinders are fine but all but one on the back are over tollerance. where can i get new shims from??
Cheers
Russ