Bikemonkey's NC30

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Timon
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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by Timon » Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:23 am

Cheers

FYI if you didn’t already know you’ll only have to take off the rear head to get the cases apart.

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bikemonkey
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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by bikemonkey » Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:07 pm

I thought you didn't need to remove the heads at all?

EDIT:

Spoke to Rick O and he confirmed it's not necessary, I'll just need to loosen a bolt with an open ended spanner as you can't get a socket on it with the rear head on, then use a crows foot to torque it back up with.

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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by Timon » Fri Jun 22, 2018 3:07 pm

hope you have better luck than me, mine started to round.

I dont like using crows feet on a torque wrench, suppose you could put the foot at 90 degrees to the wrench

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NGneer
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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by NGneer » Sat Jun 23, 2018 9:03 am

Timon wrote:
Fri Jun 22, 2018 3:07 pm
hope you have better luck than me, mine started to round.

I dont like using crows feet on a torque wrench, suppose you could put the foot at 90 degrees to the wrench
Just remember you need to factor in the additional length of the crows foot and recalculate what you need the torque wrench to be reading to get the correct actual torque. This is a lot easier if you have the crows foot straight (in line) with the torque wrench (Torque =force X distance) but can be done with it off set. Worth double checking because with any crows foot you will need a lower reading on the torque wrench and it is easy to shear or round a bolt otherwise.

Good luck Oli, hope it is back up and running soon :popcorn:

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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by bikemonkey » Tue Jun 26, 2018 10:53 pm

As the weather has been so hot I've been avoiding the garage as the metal roof does it no favours...

So yesterday I brought the loom back to the block with me to strip out all the road wiring.

I used this wiring diagram as I want to keep the ignition switch and fuse box. The charging system is already on a standalone loom.

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So I started by stripping out all the unnecessary.

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Then I made sense of what I had left. Couple of connections to make, but I want to slave it into the bike first to check the lengths of everything.

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Today a nice package from Rick O turned up with plenty of engine related goodies inside, cheers :peace:

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So I got into the garage a bit later on tonight when the heat had died down a bit again. Whipped the rear headers off as I realised they'd be very much in the way.

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Then I got the clutch off after much swearing and faffing. It was bloody tight. No pictures because I was getting a bit frustrated.

Then I got the crankcase bolts out, which would have been a breeze, if this bugger hadn't want to round every time I touched it with a spanner.

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I eventually got it loosened by filing two flats on a 6 point 12mm socket (socket is cheaper than a head gasket...) and gripping it with my mole grips. Bit of a work around, but I was not taking the rear head off!

After that I triple checked I had removed all the bolts and got tapping away with my nylon hammer. It didn't take too much effort to get the cases apart luckily.

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On initial inspection the bearing shells seem to be in good condition, which is a good sign. The dogs on the second gear along the driver shaft (furthest forward in engine) seem to have a fair bit of wear on the driving face, so that seems to be issue!

I didn't look properly as I was tired and knew it wasn't worth it. So I bagged it all up ready for tomorrow when I am a bit fresher.



If anyone knows of or has a good working gearbox then please get in contact, it's slowly turning into a needle in a haystack....

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Timon
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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by Timon » Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:11 pm

Well worth putting a new output shaft seal on while youve got it apart

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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by bikemonkey » Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:03 pm

There's one in the stack of Honda bags on the right of the parts picture :up:

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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by bikemonkey » Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:54 pm

After giving some love to the 750 and my MTB I got on with inspecting the engine and gearbox.

A good look at the crank bearing shells showed nothing abnormal which is a winner.

One of the gear selector forks has seen better days however....

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No wonder I used to find it hard to get 6th gear sometimes! Luckily I remembered I had a spare one from a set of crankcases I bought to turn into a glass coffee table which I've never finished :whistle: So I covered it in oil and will get something from work to remove the surface corrosion, hopefully not damaging the fork anymore.

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The gearbox is not in the best shape either. 2nd gear pinion (output shaft).

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6th gear pinion (output shaft)

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5th gear pinion (input shaft)

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Combined 3rd/4th gear pinion (input shaft)

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6th gear pinion (input shaft)

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I've circled on the haynes manual diagrams which bits are in need of replacement.

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Looks like a full replacement is the way to go really. Unless, on the off chance, anybody has all those gears kicking about somewhere?

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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by Timon » Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:45 pm

Almost exactly what rounded on mine

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Re: Bikemonkey's NC30

Post by bikemonkey » Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:10 pm

It was a right pain.

I could feel it going, so I tried packing out the slop with a thick feeler gauge and it was still threatening to round.

I think even a 12 point socket would have slipped, lucky I had a 6 really. Plus I used the vice to close the jaws on the mole grips, just to make sure it didn't slip around the socket!

Or you mean the gearbox? I think my rear set probably wasn't quite set up right. That and track abuse lead to this!


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