How to fit the 600 into the 3tj
Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 1:18 am
As my old thread on the old pb forum is no longer viewable i have decided to do a detailed step by step thread on how to fit a 600 motor into the 3tj as i and a few others have. This is not the only way to do it, but it is how i did it.
I used parts from the fzr600r. Im told the thundercat parts can be used but they may differ slightly from the fzr. For instance ,the thundercat has a throttle position sensor so you may have to use the full electric loom ect from the thundercat where as i managed with only the following parts.
Firstly the parts you will need:-
1- A 600 motor from a fzr600r or thundercat
2- CDI unit to suit the engine (and plugs from the loom)
3- Exhaust system
4- Carbs
5- Engine adapter mounting plates / bolts
6- 600 choke cable
7- 520 chain/sprockets 14/45 (428 chain could be used, might not last long)
The rad can be reused from the 400. If you have a rrsp then its straight forward but if you have the rr then you have to make some provion for the oil cooler. I did this by making a 'T' piece. More on that later.
No mods have to be made to the frame other than the fitting of the adapter plates as the cylinders are longer on the 600. I have seen some frames drilled to bolt the engines in place but this is illiminated by using the brackets.
I reused the standard air box, modifying it to fit the 600 carbs but you can also use pod filters as others have.
I used the exhaust system again from the 600r and only had to slightly modify it by bending it near the rear shocker link rods. This was simply done by heating it up with oxy/acetiline and forming to shape.
The 600 cdi is grafted into the the 400 loom using the plugs from the 600 loom. The complete 600 electrics can be used, if so a mod has to be made to allow for the fuel sender/ pump being different.
So assuming you have all the parts you require on with the project!
Fitting the engine
Assuming of coarse you have removed the old 400 lump and rad ect.
The 2 rear crancase mounts on the 600 lump are the same as on the 400. Offer the engine into the frame and put the 2 bolts in but do not tighten them up yet. You may notice at this point that the engine sits closer to the frame at 1 side. When the spacer/ adapter plates are fitted and all the bolts are tightened it all squares up nicely.(*** I have been informed that fitting in this method mounts the engine ever so slightly out of square with the frame. Although there seem to be no adverse efeects from fitting in the method i am currently finding ways to counter the offset. It will basically involve machining the thickness of the left hand plate off the 2 cylinder mounts on the left hand side of the engine***)
Remove the top rear engine bolt and pivot the engine forward to allow the adapter plates to be fitted. The bolts holes in the cylinder are m10 fine thread. I had difficulty in finding some m10 fine thread coutersunk set screws and opted to use normal m10 countersunk set screws and retapped the cylinder holes. With this all done the plate can be mounted.
By twaudby, shot with PDR2300 at 2007-07-18
I used parts from the fzr600r. Im told the thundercat parts can be used but they may differ slightly from the fzr. For instance ,the thundercat has a throttle position sensor so you may have to use the full electric loom ect from the thundercat where as i managed with only the following parts.
Firstly the parts you will need:-
1- A 600 motor from a fzr600r or thundercat
2- CDI unit to suit the engine (and plugs from the loom)
3- Exhaust system
4- Carbs
5- Engine adapter mounting plates / bolts
6- 600 choke cable
7- 520 chain/sprockets 14/45 (428 chain could be used, might not last long)
The rad can be reused from the 400. If you have a rrsp then its straight forward but if you have the rr then you have to make some provion for the oil cooler. I did this by making a 'T' piece. More on that later.
No mods have to be made to the frame other than the fitting of the adapter plates as the cylinders are longer on the 600. I have seen some frames drilled to bolt the engines in place but this is illiminated by using the brackets.
I reused the standard air box, modifying it to fit the 600 carbs but you can also use pod filters as others have.
I used the exhaust system again from the 600r and only had to slightly modify it by bending it near the rear shocker link rods. This was simply done by heating it up with oxy/acetiline and forming to shape.
The 600 cdi is grafted into the the 400 loom using the plugs from the 600 loom. The complete 600 electrics can be used, if so a mod has to be made to allow for the fuel sender/ pump being different.
So assuming you have all the parts you require on with the project!
Fitting the engine
Assuming of coarse you have removed the old 400 lump and rad ect.
The 2 rear crancase mounts on the 600 lump are the same as on the 400. Offer the engine into the frame and put the 2 bolts in but do not tighten them up yet. You may notice at this point that the engine sits closer to the frame at 1 side. When the spacer/ adapter plates are fitted and all the bolts are tightened it all squares up nicely.(*** I have been informed that fitting in this method mounts the engine ever so slightly out of square with the frame. Although there seem to be no adverse efeects from fitting in the method i am currently finding ways to counter the offset. It will basically involve machining the thickness of the left hand plate off the 2 cylinder mounts on the left hand side of the engine***)
Remove the top rear engine bolt and pivot the engine forward to allow the adapter plates to be fitted. The bolts holes in the cylinder are m10 fine thread. I had difficulty in finding some m10 fine thread coutersunk set screws and opted to use normal m10 countersunk set screws and retapped the cylinder holes. With this all done the plate can be mounted.
By twaudby, shot with PDR2300 at 2007-07-18