Advice re pods on FCRs

[Rocketfj45]

Hi, new bloke again. Before I ask my question, a bit of detail on my bike. It was a grey import I got as a wreck. Only 9k kms though with a strong motor. Over 2 yrs I removed rust, painted and replaced many items like bearings, chain sprockets, fitted Chinese fairings (mine were mostly rooted). Fork tubes rechromed and much more. Another set of stock CV carbs (originals were too rich no matter what I did). Got it running and registered and intended to use it as a road bike but a track day at Phillip Island got me hooked and I realised its potential, despite it being slow and handling like a sponge. I’m only 76 kg but it was way undersprung and underdamped. So I fitted race tech springs and valves to the forks, a Wilber’s shock to the back and some Keihin FCRs. It’s gone from about 45rwhp to 67 (dyno) and handles ace, albeit it’s hard and a bit like riding a house brick on the road. I also fitted some blue spot calipers after reading about them here. Whole kit incl master cyl with adj lever from an FZ1 for only $150 now it does stoppies too.

So my question about the carbs and pods. I’m currently not running any air filters, just the stock rubber velocity stacks. I’d like to fit pods. It makes a great induction roar but for engine longevity filters would be best. It refused to run at all with the stock air box fitted (way too rich). It lost 4 hp just putting the air box in place without filter or snorkel. I have tried to get leaner needles to no avail (currently on leanest clip using stock needle which is right down the lean end of the needle list anyway) but they seem unavailable. I understand pods will enrichen the mixture a bit and can work with that, but am hoping less so than the air box. I want to know if someone knows which are the best pods that are the easiest to fit. Do I need adaptors and where do I get same or will I have to make them or buy metal velocity stacks?

[Evilchicken0]

Do you know which model it is ? Look on the cdi or see if it has twin headlights and any air intakes.
A standard bike in good repair should be at 55-60 hp. I dont know that much about flatslides but if your down to the weakest needle id say they could be too big, i think you use 32 or 33 mm.
Have a look at the BDK Racing website they have some setting info on flats fitted to a 3TJ modded racebike. For me id look to keep the engine and carbs standard for a trackday spend the money on tyres oil and brake pads. Youve done suspension and brakes which is the important thing.

[Rocketfj45]

It’s a 3EN1. I’m talking RWHP. Also, dyno readings vary by brand. Forget any claims of actual HP, What I do know is that with the stock CV carbs the motor couldn’t even spell TORQUE but with the flat slides it is a whole new beast. It feels to have double the torque and hp. The carbs are off a 3TJ SP so are either 32s or 33s, haven’t measured them. A bit of dicking around to fit them, but well worth the expense and effort. It’s like comparing a skoda to a Ferrari. Anyone have FCR/pod experience?

[Evilchicken0]

Talk to BDK

[Rocketfj45]

Will do thanks Evil

[moforockband]

Yeah the fcr's really seem to wake some of the 400's up. http://www.ramair-filters.co.uk/ will post you set out internationally.
I would keep the velocity stacks you have and fit filters with no end cap, your jetting should not need to be changed.
You can go for the 2 or 4 filter set-up, keep the fcr's though for track work though, it will fly.
I had to use 185 mains on my fcr'd zxr400, but that had a humongous airbox and was an ex tt bike (tuned to the balls).

[Rocketfj45]

Thanks for the link. I’ve tested a bit more and got it quite close. I’m using 125 mains, had to use 130 (from 140) main air jets to cure a lean issue around 14k (was hesitant to rev past 14), a 50 pilot and richer straight section needle (ETV to ETU) to clean up a lean bottom end and raised the needle to #2 which helped the bottom and mid even more. It used to bog under load below 8k especially in 5th or 6th, then come back to life if you backed off a bit, the richer clip fixed that. I hadn’t thought that even though removing the airbox made the top end come alive, I would have to richen up the rest to compensate. Now it does great wheelies and the top end is super, albeit without air filters. Turns out despite most experts saying A/F ratio needs to be 12.5 to 1, mine works best under load a bit richer than that. I’ve spent so much time on it now it’s runnning right I might just continue without filters. That said, the pods might have richened up the bottom enough all by themselves and I could perhaps have just leaned off the mains . Had a play with a mate on a new KTM 690 motard and blew him off, even though that’s a single it’s much larger capacity, injected and new so hooray the 30 YO rice burner! Off to Phillip island next week to see where I’m at now.

[Rocketfj45]

Update. At PI top speed has gone from around 175 to 210. Hard to be accurate as it’s right off the clock . Anyone thinking of fitting flat slide FCRs to one of these, don’t hesitate.

[moforockband]

Nice man, PI on a 400 haha respect!
I'd deffo get some pods or at least some gauze on the trumpets, just in case you hit the gravel trap or ingest a stone etc. If you go for the full foam pods, I don't think you'll need to re-jet.