Electrical Issue
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- Joined: Thu Mar 10, 2016 5:47 pm
- Bike owned: cbr 400 zxr 400 gsx 1300r
Re: Electrical Issue
Hi davez29
Thanks for the help as always. My left indicator is suddenly working now.
I have read the test on the Haynes manual....yes I will do that. I have got a bike trac tracker fitted on my bike. I rode today to Graffiti tunnel in Waterloo...Here are some pics, they are really nice
https://postimg.org/image/oja61l2qr/
https://postimg.org/image/5jeeiwfep/
https://postimg.org/image/7h8a6wd8f/
https://postimg.org/image/hxqp5ewch/
https://postimg.org/image/4t8sqkscl/
Thanks for the help as always. My left indicator is suddenly working now.
I have read the test on the Haynes manual....yes I will do that. I have got a bike trac tracker fitted on my bike. I rode today to Graffiti tunnel in Waterloo...Here are some pics, they are really nice
https://postimg.org/image/oja61l2qr/
https://postimg.org/image/5jeeiwfep/
https://postimg.org/image/7h8a6wd8f/
https://postimg.org/image/hxqp5ewch/
https://postimg.org/image/4t8sqkscl/
- Davez29
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Re: Electrical Issue
Your bikes looking good, should have had the Urban Tiger graphics for that Urban landscape, joking. That place seems a popular choice for bike pictures i have seen a few taken there. Last time i was in London many moons ago I lived in Streatham and sold my bike at that time in Brixton. I never been back since, i guess its changed a lot, especially with all the bike thieves you see on Youtube.
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Re: Electrical Issue
hahaha Urban Tiger scheme. JOKER. My left indicator is working now. What do you think about the bike trac tracking system on the battery?
iT WOULD HAVE Been really cool if you had still been in London. I havent had any issues with bike theft. In my university in London, there was an underground closed shutter/gate parking for bikes, so I always used to park there.
There's a video on youtube showing a bike (looks like BMW 1200GS) being stolen in daylight from the Solo Motorcycle bay IN MY UNIVERSITY in Elephant and castle. I am doing whatever I can to secure my bike. A cover really helps.....
iT WOULD HAVE Been really cool if you had still been in London. I havent had any issues with bike theft. In my university in London, there was an underground closed shutter/gate parking for bikes, so I always used to park there.
There's a video on youtube showing a bike (looks like BMW 1200GS) being stolen in daylight from the Solo Motorcycle bay IN MY UNIVERSITY in Elephant and castle. I am doing whatever I can to secure my bike. A cover really helps.....
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Re: Electrical Issue
Davez29 wrote:Im wondering if the wiring is shorting out somewhere. Maybe disconnect the left hand switch to see if things differ. I would also double check your lefthand switch, wiring and connectors. The battery should not quickly discharge with just the ignition on for a couple of minutes, but will if you leave the ignition and lights in the on position without running the engine.
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You still must check your charging system in anycase, just to discount any problems there.
If this is not the case i would suspect a short. The haynes manual gives a test for discharge problems, sorry i cant remember what it is but the bike should be turned off with the battery connected with the negative lead off when doing the test. Basically its a test showing battery and discharge, wether its the same for lithium i dont know.
Have you got an immobiliser or alarm attached?
Hi Davez29
I just did the test with my multimeter and I put my Multimeter's negative wire on the negative point of the battery and then the positive wire from my multimeter to the negative lead on the bike and it showed zero Amps...which is good as this indicates no current leakage I think.
Then I turned the Multimeter to the DC Voltage section (20 VOLTS OPTION). I started the bike and took it to 3000 RPM and the voltage showed 13.78 Volts max and I held it there for like 20 seconds and it would not go higher.
The Haynes manual states that L, N and R models 14.0 to 16.0V @ 3000 RPM.
So the voltage is below the stated Voltage amount on the haynes manual.
What does this mean now...something is not right...most likely the Alternator as I put a new regulator a few weeks ago and solved the problem of the battery dying within 10 mins of the lights being on with the bike running.
What is your advice Mr. Davez29
- Davez29
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Re: Electrical Issue
Hi mate i would try the AC test i mentioned earlier. Then go through the other tests also mentioned in the Haynes. Electrical issues are a pain if your not electrically inclined.
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Re: Electrical Issue
It could be the Alternator. I had one go on a 29 and if fried the regulator too. Just whip the cover off and check for any black wires.
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Re: Electrical Issue
dunkenb wrote:It could be the Alternator. I had one go on a 29 and if fried the regulator too. Just whip the cover off and check for any black wires.
Ok yea Thanks for the help dunkenb. I do have a new Altenator.....I will have to put it soon.
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Re: Electrical Issue
Ohhhhh GOdddd......the same problem has come back and now its worse than before.
Previously if I turned on the lights at night, after about 10 minutes even if the bike is moving/running the whole battery would die and the bike would switch off.
Now TODAY 7 APRIL 2017, the battery just dies after 20 mins IN THE DAY TIME (NO LIGHTS ON, NOTHING!) even when the bike is running. I just came back from university and I had my battery charger with me and I had to stop at a PUB to charge it for 45 mins, and GOD ALMIGHTY I went HOME FAST. JUST MADE IT AND THE BATTERY DIED.
I guess this ORIGINAL HONDA RECTIFIER HAS FAILED AS WELL. Now I will not use the bike until this electrical issue is completely sorted and I need a system that is really strong and will not give any problems ever again.
I think DAVEZ29's idea I will have to use.....
Someone please help
Previously if I turned on the lights at night, after about 10 minutes even if the bike is moving/running the whole battery would die and the bike would switch off.
Now TODAY 7 APRIL 2017, the battery just dies after 20 mins IN THE DAY TIME (NO LIGHTS ON, NOTHING!) even when the bike is running. I just came back from university and I had my battery charger with me and I had to stop at a PUB to charge it for 45 mins, and GOD ALMIGHTY I went HOME FAST. JUST MADE IT AND THE BATTERY DIED.
I guess this ORIGINAL HONDA RECTIFIER HAS FAILED AS WELL. Now I will not use the bike until this electrical issue is completely sorted and I need a system that is really strong and will not give any problems ever again.
I think DAVEZ29's idea I will have to use.....
Someone please help
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Re: Electrical Issue
Davez29 wrote:I have not used one of these lithium batteries so cant say if they are good or bad for everyday riding, hopefully someone can help out there. The Varta I use is an AGM type and does do the job well but I guess lithium maybe the way forward, the thing is I need reliability and cant see myself changing anytime soon to an unknown source, especially as my lights are permanantly on. Although it would be a bit lighter carrying as a spare in your tail compartment on long trips as I always do nowadays, something I have always done since my bad charging days. I cant afford to get stuck 30 miles away at work with a duff battery.
You have a new rectifier but it seems that even new Honda replacements can fail quite quickly, sadly. So in the future if you need another look for a Mosfet type replacement instead of the Shunt type you have now, these run a lot cooler. They can be obtained from places such as Electrex World but look around as many three wire units will fit the 29, usually a connector change is required. I know that I could fry an egg on my old shunt type rectifier, my Mosfet rectifier barely gets tepid as the technology works differently.
With the summer aproaching I guess the lower wattage bulbs will help but if you can fix it, do it, as those 35w ones are pathetic on low beam out of town.
Best get a multimeter and do those tests and test your bike.
Also I used to use one of those LED charge lights, usually on ebay, that you wire in. These change colour and give you an indication on what your charging system is doing. The seller I got mine off lives in Scotland and he will program the chip to whatever you want, basicly a traffic light system, for instance, Green 14.5v all good, Orange 13v under charge, Red 15v overcharge and various flashing modes for more info. Although his standard set up is good enough.
edit; one other thing, although not a fix if you dont have one get an Optimate charger, v3 or v4 is good enough for normal lead acid/agm batteries, v4 will charge at a slighly higher rate. More important to you, they do a version for your style Lithium although check the specs are right for you if considering buying. this will help ensure you have a charged battery to begin with.
good luck
Hi Davez29
Please can you send me a link of the Mosfet rectifier type you are talking about. ANd please dont tell me to look around, its there, as I have looked around, but the title doesnt seem to say Mosfet rectifier.
Thanks alot
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Re: Electrical Issue
If its your second Rectifier it seems unlikely to have failed again. Its probably the alternator is weak and not producing enough current.
My bike does something similar though not as bad, but rather than fix it I wired in a volt meter and turn off the lights when its at idle. Not the best situation I know....
My bike does something similar though not as bad, but rather than fix it I wired in a volt meter and turn off the lights when its at idle. Not the best situation I know....