nc29 left hand switch gear

[absolute]

I am having a problem where my horn has stopped working and I need to get the bike through the MOT, I have tried everything to get it working, I have replaced the horn, taken the switch gear apart and checked the contacts on the switch, cleaned all the connections on the connector blocks and nothing, it still isnt working. Everything on the switch gear is working perfectly. Does anyone know anywhere that I can get a second hand one from as I am having no luck, I have tried e-bay, and Graeme France who doens't have one and now I am stuck. Alternatively does anyone know of any way of a quick fix to get a horn on and passed through an MOT?? I have a feeling that attaching one of those clown type honky horns just won't cut the mustard with the MOT folk..

[keithvfr]

Is there power going to the switch?If you take the horn and wire it across the battery does it work ok?
Only way round it would be to wire it in with another rocker switch but dont know how that would work for an MOT.

[Davez29]

I have a feeling that attaching one of those clown type honky horns just won't cut the mustard with the MOT folk..

Wear some clown shoes and a red nose when you take the bike, that'll sort it.

I noticed a cheap Chinese left switch on ebay £12, maybe give those a try, but I think its more than likely a wiring or plug problem if the horn has been changed and you have tested the switch. alternative switches from early Fireblades may work and are easier to source depending which switch you have, as later nc29s have different switch gear, shared with rvfs and bigger vfrs. Using a different model switch, which may look the same at the switch end will most likely need to be replugged, easily done with a small bladed driver and your old plugs. as Keith vfr says though do his recommendations first.

[absolute]

Thanks for the reply's, I have to admit that I am useless with a muti meter, but last night I had a good friend looking over the wiring diagram for the bike and he is going to come round with his multi meter at the weekend and give the wiring a good prod with it to see if we can narrow things down. For the record it is one of the later types of nc29 where the headlights are permanently on. Are there a few types of bike that share the same switch gear, could I look for a vfr switch gear and re-wire the plugs (under adult supervision) and sling one of them on?

[Davez29]

Yes, nc35 and some of the higher CC vfrs use the same switch gear BUT you will need to repin them to your old plugs. Its very easy to do, note the wiring colours and where they fit on your plugs, write it down and now using a small jewellery type of driver unhook them from the old plugs, pushing the inner tab down and a gentle tug will bring the wire out. and swap em over pin for pin, just lift each tab a little again and push into place. I used an nc35 one on my R model 29.

[absolute]

Thanks durka durka, I have just been reading that a cbr 125 switch gear should be a straight swap. If it isn't do I just need to swap the wires in the connectors??

[Bowches]

Hi there

Can someone please help me.....I have a CBR 400 NC29 1990. My left hand switch pass light does not seem to be working, I mean the 'parking lights', the first click up when putting the headlights on. Also the horn switch suddenly stopped working.
But the full headlights switch is working including the indicators and the HIGH BEAM PASS switch is working.

Can someone please help me?

Also is it the problem of my rectifier that when I turn on my lights (headlights), that my battery dies and the entire bike shutsdown. When I ride without any lights on, obviously the day time the bike runs, but when I put the lights on, the battery and the bike dies.

PLEASE HELP!

[CB1pod70]

I would say that it sounds like your regulator is on its way out if the bike dies when the lights are switched on. Fully charge the battery and check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running - should be about 14.4V without the lights on (5000rpm+) and only drop a bit when the lights are switched on.

the other option is that the stator in the r/h casing has burnt out - this is obvious just from looking at it, it will be black & crispy and smell burnt....

[Bowches]

I would say that it sounds like your regulator is on its way out if the bike dies when the lights are switched on. Fully charge the battery and check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running - should be about 14.4V without the lights on (5000rpm+) and only drop a bit when the lights are switched on.

the other option is that the stator in the r/h casing has burnt out - this is obvious just from looking at it, it will be black & crispy and smell burnt....

Hey CB1pod70,

GREAT the LIGHTS WORK NOW, I mean the battery and the bike does not go dead after 5 mins when the bike is moving and running. I bought a new Official Honda Rectifier, lights are on throughout now.