you have to follow the angle the wheel would travel under compression to see where it would hit.

plan is to put the front wheel up against my metal gate and strap the bike from each bar downwards through its stroke. then I'll know for sure.

started setting up the speedo sensor for the translogic. wiring sorted but location is a work in progress. finding somewhere not only suitable but looks correct is easier said than done

starting panicking it's not going to be ready for paint on the 28th. panicked even more when I rang the platers and they couldn't find my parts! they weren't sure they had even received them OMG!!!

few hours later all parts were found :)

on the way home the powdercoaters rang to say those items were ready too.

waiting on a few bits from jap 4 and couple more jets , then everything will be here.

I may even get a test ride this weekend.

engine bolts in and torqued up.

rear caliper fully rebuilt, new pads and hose.

made a total balls up. when I fitted the chain the adjuster was 180 degrees out ffs so needs a few more links out

started working on the rearsets. I managed to get some beautiful but slightly beaten up coerce ones cheap.

straightened them out with some heat and a press. they didnt come with the clamp onto the gear shaft.

using the original one it either fouls the inner rearset plate or the gear lever.

I've removed the rivet so I can now replace the rose joint with a new left hand thread one.

unfortunately the hole running through it is 6.5mm so I'm going to drill it out to 8mm and fit a bush to reduce the size to a m6. it will also allow me to move the rod out 5mm and will then clear everything.

the quality of the rearsets are fantastic. pegs have pins to prevent rotation, brackets for the master and rod location are splined to help fine tune fitment. very impressive.

onto the peg locating pins... 1 was missing so I've just made some new ones

1 rearset down and one to finish.

put a lovely slim line brembo unit on. I think it was from a ktm 950.
to fit correctly it needed a shouldered bolt. m8 shoulder through the lever and m6 through the rose joint.

I happened to have one from a set of bark busters just the right size shoulder length and thread length.

next problem was the fact theres no springs on the lever could flap about.

fix was to pull the rubber boot down and put a small spring under the boot over the push arm from the lever. this returns the lever back down rather than relying on the pressure of the master cylinder.

then the lever was sat too high. fix was the old race bike trick of rubber band around the toe to the side plate.

this is only a short term measure as I'll make a eccentric adjuster into the side plate (basically a round piece of aluminium with a offset hole to set the height more accurately)

pressure switch stolen from a old husqvarna dirtbike.

jobs a gud un. IMHO these suit the bike far better than a set of tygas or SES ones. more in keeping with the bikes age.

the brake reservoir hose is a tad too short but I'm out of hose correct diameter so I'll get some ordered.

left side was much easier.

before making a bush and bolting on a rose joint thought I'd just double check I didn't have anything suitable.

found a cbr300 gear shaft knuckle in perfect condition. it has just the right offset to clear everything. perfect.

the cbr300 had only covered 700 miles and I've used a new rose joint on the other end.

I've also shimmed both rearsets to remove any slop.

dab of grease and it feels like a new bike.

That's cool - it's looking very much like a bike that is closer and closer to riding :)

I had a set of Coerce rearsets back in the day - they were very good and I can't actually remember what became of them! I run (or did) a set of WR Battlesteps but they need a bit of a service and the gear lever keying up again to the rod - it's sloppy.

Have got a SES and RCD for the bike in track mode - functional.

Am liking the rear M/C - looks just right.

cheers, you didn't badly bend your coerce rearsets did you as these may be the ones lol
SES are hard to beat for track use. I think they do a slightly sleeker design version now which I almost went for them. idea was to have them blasted to fit in nicer with the bike.

I keep looking thinking almost there and then theres another job. this evening spent a few hours finishing the last few bits of wiring, front brake light switch and ordering parts.

finding suitable hose was hard work. clips, bellypan grill, screen trim, tank trim and few other odds and sods needed.

I am building an NC race bike and wanted to know how best to remove the restrictions of the speedo, clutch, neutral and side stand switch as i have a simplified wiring harness and all theses things are gone. The bike does not fire on the rear cylinders due to the items being removed as i understand, Can you add any clarity for me. Thanks Robert.

not posted for a while as I'd got a little disheartened when the paint company rang to say it's been knocked back till 23rd of August:(

this has given the time for last few bits to arrive for the carbs, handlebars and few other bits .

the pipe is staying off till paint is completed so they dont damage it.

stuck some fuel in the carbs and she fired straight up. there was an occasional drip from 1 of the carbs when sat. gave it a tap and it seems to have stopped. bloody loud with no pipe on!

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