NC24 main fuse keeps on melting??

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SAVFR400Rnc24
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NC24 main fuse keeps on melting??

Post by SAVFR400Rnc24 » Thu Aug 03, 2017 2:33 pm

Hi All,

I would like to know if anyone has an idea why my main 30 amp fuse keeps on melting on my NC24.
Any help in the right direction would be appreciated.

Thank you

magg
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Re: NC24 main fuse keeps on melting??

Post by magg » Thu Aug 03, 2017 11:56 pm

Try disconnecting the rect/reg.

SAVFR400Rnc24
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Re: NC24 main fuse keeps on melting??

Post by SAVFR400Rnc24 » Tue Aug 08, 2017 9:27 am

Hi Magg,

Thank you for the reply, I dont know exactly how this will help?
It melts within time if I have a ride on the bike, I saw the connections look rusted and I read that this could also cause heat, which melts the fuse.
The fuse itself does not blow just melts on one side.
I bought a second hand solenoid that looks good BUT it has a 15 amp fuse and not the standard 30 amp will this still work?
Please any help will be appreciated.

magg
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Re: NC24 main fuse keeps on melting??

Post by magg » Tue Aug 08, 2017 11:39 am

Disconnecting the rect/reg was recommended as the 30 Amp main fuse function is to stop a defective rect/reg and any other short circuits from discharging the battery or damaging the wiring. A defective rect/reg is not an uncommon problem and I had interpreted the "melting fuse" to mean blown, my apologies.

Yes a bad fuse contact will generate heat that can melt the fuse body, the poor electrical contact can also result in an under charged battery. I would recommend replacing the 15 Amp fuse with a 30 Amp, the smaller fuse may be hard pressed to support the current required at times by the bike.

SAVFR400Rnc24
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Re: NC24 main fuse keeps on melting??

Post by SAVFR400Rnc24 » Tue Aug 08, 2017 3:00 pm

Hi Magg,

Thank you so much for the help, I really appreciate it.
Always a learning experience.

In south Africa I would say, "Jy is n yster" which translates to "you are steel" which actually just means you are awesome or brilliant etc.
I only got the VFR recently and have sorted out a few problems on it.

One mod they have made is that you cannot start the bike while the engine run switch is on,which is the normal way to do it.
You need to have the kill switch activated then press the starter button and then flip over the engine run switch and then the bike starts and rides fine.
If the engine run switch is in its normal on position nothing happens while pressing starter switch.
I have no idea why they did this and cant get hold of them.
Any ideas?

magg
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Re: NC24 main fuse keeps on melting??

Post by magg » Tue Aug 08, 2017 11:07 pm

What is the "kill switch"? Believe NC24 and NC30 wiring is the same or very similar and on this basis you should have an ignition switch, RUN/STOP switch, a START button, clutch switch and a neutral switch.

The clutch switch stops the START button from functioning if the engine is in gear and the clutch is NOT pulled in.

The RUN/STOP switch is the "kill switch" to most people, supplies power to the ignition system, provided the ignition switch is ON.

Normally ignition ON, RUN/STOP switch in RUN and bike in neutral or clutch pulled in and START button should function.

If RUN switch in STOP, bike will not fire but START button will function, provided bike in neutral or clutch pulled in and the ignition switch is ON.

Neosophist
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Re: NC24 main fuse keeps on melting??

Post by Neosophist » Fri Aug 11, 2017 12:40 pm

Most likely the corrosion / dirty contact on the main fuse.

I had one once that had a loose contact on the mainfuse that was causing weird gremlins and melting.

The correct fuse should be a 30 amp fuse... 15 amp might blow unexpectedly.

The rubber holder for the solenoid also has a slot in it to hold a spare fuse.. make sure you have one in it..

As for your strange wiring i'd chalk it down to the bike being in South Africa... 99% of the VFR owners on this board from SA have the most abused and wrecked VFR's i've ever seen.. I think it's a mechanical hell for these bikes.

From the way I can work out it sounds like the swtich has been rewired so that it no longer cuts the bike off at all? It only cuts the power to the starter? Or has it just been reversed and will kill the running engine when switched to on?

I've seen this done before as a cheap "anti-theft" device... somebody screwdrivers the lock and can't start the bike with the run switch on as it's been reversed..

Doesn't fool everyone.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...


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